Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 10:36:43 -0800
Reply-To: Joel Cort <joel_cort@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Joel Cort <joel_cort@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: solution to HEADSTUD HORROR!
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Jim,
I feel for ya Man! Apparently this is a problem with
VW studs because Fast German Auto sell replacement
studs made of stronger stuff. I'm sure others sell
new studs as well but check their catalog out at
www.fastgerman.com - not cheap
I just had both heads replaced and I let CDI in Victor
NY do the job and worry about that. It cost me about
$1800 (2 new heads at $550 each) and a week of riding
the bus. Most of all I did not have the time to do it
myself. They pull the engine out to do this. I'll
bet that your engine is still in the van?
What to do what to do! Back when I worked in a garage
with my father this occurred often enough - specially
when I put my torque to the bolts.
Here's what my father the mechanic would have done.
The only long term solution is to get to the broken
bolt portion out of the case and replace it with a
good stud. To get to it you should remove everything
in the way. The broken stud can be removed pretty
easily once you can get to the problem.
Tools required: (Can be obtained from any FLAP/Sears)
drill bit: to match extractor and < bold diameter.
You want to maximize the hole without drilling out the
side of the tread into the case - be cautious.
extractor bit: of a smaller diameter than the broken
stud. Get the biggest extractor that matches the bolt
diameter. You will want to insert as much of the
extractor as possible into the broken bolt
Steps:
1) cuss in a foreign language
2) Remove everything all over again
3) the new head gasket is still good but the glue will
have to be removed and re-applied - you may need a new
gasket if is glued to the metal.
4) pull the cylinder sleeves out ( I'm not too sure
the process for putting the cylinders back on - anyone
else? but follow Bentley)
5) keep pulling the water jackets out to get to the
broken stud (again follow Bentley)
6) tie up the pistons so they are out of the way
7) locate the perfect center of the broken bolt with a
punch to center a drill bit - file flat if required
8) drill a hole through to insert the extractor so the
bolt is as straight as possible to keep from drilling
through and into the engine case.
9a) Use the extractor tool and torque
counter-clockwise to unscrew the frigin broken piece
of stud out of the case.
9b) cuss again if this is not working and the bolt
wont budge. A small amount of heat may be required to
convince the bolt to turn. Be careful with the source
of heat as to not smoke other vital parts and
plumbing.
10) Smile! your halfway there
11) at this point I would replace all the studs since
it is much easier to do it right now.
12) use a vise grip or two nuts together to unscrew
the studs
13) insert new stud using the two-nut together method
- follow Bentley
14) clean up any cuttings and change the oil if drill
cuttings got that far. Put new seals as required
15) install cylinder jacket and sleeves using a ring
compression tool - follow bentley
16) Re install head with goop and head gasket
17) put the yellow goop on the cap nuts and torque
away - this time it should not bust on ya
18) reinstall exhaust system
19) add coolant (you know the procedures here!)
20) Smile and have a cool beverage
Good luck, Please let me know what you did or if you
have an alternate solution.
Stop on by if you get to the flower city of Rochester
Joel
89 Syncro Westy GL
Rochester NY.
--- James Ruch <jpeterruch@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
> Don't read this with the lights out... it could
> happen to you!
>
> Twenty some hours into a both-sides head gasket job
> (including resurfacing
> of the old mating surfaces etc)... first side
> done... going into the final
> torque sequence (anicipating the sound of the engine
> firing on the first
> attempt)... at the specified 37 ft. lbs.... out of
> the dark and gloomy
> nothing... PING!! and my wrench goes slack. I knew
> it wasn't good.
>
> I had noted that the head studs didn't look so good
> and that if I ever did
> this job again, I might have to replace them. One
> of them (number 2 in the
> torque sequence) failed. It broke way down near the
> crankcase... before any
> threads that might be there.
>
> I am thinking about threading the hole in the head
> that the stud passes
> through and simply plugging it.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1. What are the chances of my getting away with
> this "plug plan".
>
> 2. If I have to replace the stud(s), do I have to
> split the crankcase?
>
> 3. "To me -- to me -- why do these things always
> happen to me?"
>
> Thanks for any help anyone can provide.
>
> Still smiling (amazingly)
>
> Jim Ruch
> '85 Weekender; "Snugvagon"
> Alfred, NY
>
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