Date:         Fri, 19 Nov 1999 07:24:40 -0800
Reply-To:     "T.P. Stephens" <doktortim@ROCKISLAND.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "T.P. Stephens" <doktortim@ROCKISLAND.COM>
Subject:      Re: gas tank sender
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>To: Michael Benthin <benthin@prodigy.net>
>From: "T.P. Stephens" <doktortim@rockisland.com>

At 08:59 AM 11/19/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>I have the same problem on our 210,000mi Westy - and have for last 80k
>used a paper and pencil to determine fill time (use 200 mi as easy
>number)-  Only once, after some gas had been siphoned out for a lawn
>mower, did it start bucking and I realized it was running out- stopped,
>got out the spare gallon in the roof pod, and was off to gas station.
>The amazing part is, it took just about 15 gallons to the click of pump!
>BTW, I understand in the later FI busses you CAN remove the panel
>covering the gas tank cavity; tricky part is the lower 2 screws?

Yes, paperpencil is an essential tool for expanding the memory in certain
manner. It works. That is why it is an essential ingredient of DM. If you
don't write it down it ain't DATA.

The first time I had to remove a tank panel, those screws were obscured by
crud and I had to remove the motor to find them. Since, I have been able to
get it out with only removing several items on the upper motor. It can be
done if you have actually seen it done. If not, and it's your first time,
removing the motor can take less time.

Then, if you don't take a vacuum to the 10mm dust layer on top of the tank,
you can fill the tank  with grit when replacing the sender, which ain't no
piece of cake, unless you remove the tank, which is prudent for restoration
on any 20+ year old vehicle anyway. Yes, and replace all the rubber fuel
system items now much easier to get to while your there as well to enhance
the value, mo betta. WHILE YOUR THERE FIX EVERYTHING that will fail in the
next 20+ years, or 5 years, depending on your tolerance of compromise.
That's DM.

Anyone who is pulling a motor, for whatever reason, in a 15+ year old Type
II should consider adding removal of the tank for cleaning and recoating
inside and out, replacement of the sender, and get the benefit of the motor
R&R by adding another hour or so to address the tank. What you trade the up
front extra time/money for is 3 or 5 times the time/money and frustration
at a later date to replace just the sender, with no access to remove and
service the tank and much poorer access to vacuum the dust and R&R the
sender.

Planning the time/money budget before you start spending the time/money by
writting an outline of custom procedural enhancement using paperpencil is
required by DM. Don't tear in to find out what to do. Find out what to do
before you progress in orderly fashion. In that way, every dollar/hour
spent will give the beste long term, cost per mile VALUE, which in my mind
equates to RESULTS.

As an example, when I rebuild and custom massaged my Porsche 912 motor, I
planned before hand the time/money necessary to honor first premiss, "Thou
shalt not leak!!!!"  This required up front expense for factory sealants,
o-rings and gaskets where specified, no sealant where not specified, and
immaculate cleaning of everything, including complete detailing of the
motor compartment. While there, I saw a crack in a bit of original seam
sealer. I had allowed CONTINGENTCY in planning for just this reason. I took
the extra time to chip and clean it off there to find a little pocket of
rust that I removed, treated with conversion alchemical, and resealed with
factory seam compound.

Now, once per year, I take a rag moisened with solvent and spend 20 minutes
to wipe the natural weepage/dust off the motor, top and bottom, and 10
years later it is a clean as when I installed it. The right time/money up
front and 20 minutes per year maintenance and I never have a spot from a
single drop of oil, and EVERYBODY leans back and says WOW when I lift the
lid, then says WOW again when they look underneath and see clean dry
aluminum and steel.

The WOW factor is VALUE ADDED at no extra charge. Haven't I told you, DM
will set you free?

Doktor Tim
Maintenance Repair and Restoration of European Vehicles
San Juan Island, WA