Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 15:30:11 -0400
Reply-To: David Beierl <dbeierl@IBM.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: David Beierl <dbeierl@IBM.NET>
Subject: Re: How to operate the temp control
In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.19991015125440.0085eea0@pop3.rconnect.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
At 13:54 10/15/99 , Laura Olson wrote:
>Okay, here goes.
>
>questions. How DO the heater/vent controls work? I have figured out that
>if I push all four levers to the right, it is warm and all four to the
>left, it is cool, but what are the individual levers for?
Almost right...
Top lever -- Windscreen (defrost) air -- right is more
2nd lever -- Air temp -- right is more
3d lever -- Footwell air -- left is more
4th lever -- rear (unheated) air -- left is more
The squirrels^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^Helves designed it so that shoving all four
levers to the right gives you maximum defrost; the rest follows of
necessity from that
> I have figured
>out how to run the frig in all three modes :-), but my sink pump doesn't
>work. I filled the tank from the inside as I don't have a key for the
>outside and I hear that is a no-no, besides being a pain.
Someone on the list can dup/provide those keys, I think. It's a DOM key,
overkill IMO -- but I don't know how many different keys there were. At
the worst you can get a new filler door from ?Bus Depot? for about $50 --
the new ones have a simple plastic key that is easily made from coathanger
if necessary.
> Then the pump
>didn't work. I called fellow listee, Jim Fritz (thanks Jim, for
>introducing me to the list), here in my little town and he says either the
>pump is bad or the fuse. I have no desire to go messing with the fuses
>with no manual and I hate to spend money for a pump if it is just a fuse.
Tiny fusebox at the bottom of the driver's B-pillar, just forward of the
furniture -- one fuse is for fridge, other for pump etc. If it *is* the
pump, don't even think of one from the dealer. Various people have them
for sale for ?$30? or so. If pump is submerged in the tank, the smallest
possible bilge pump is a reasonable substitute, $15 or less in boat
stores. If it's the faucet switch, may be repairable (take the cap off and
look) or search archives for alternatives.
>I don't want to buy the Bentley manual when I won't be able to understand
>or use much of it (Should I have it anyway?), but I would like to be able
>to fix the little things, like the pump.
Bentley is the only source for Camper-specific info. Haynes ($25 from Bus
Depot) is good for most other stuff. If you're breaking in a mechanic, I'm
sure he could use both Bentley and Haynes.
> I am reasonably handy, but don't
>even look at auto motors and such.
Perhaps you'll be starting soon <evil grin>.
> One other question, what does OXS mean
>on the indicator lights?
Reminder that it's been N (probably 30,000) miles since O2 sensor was
replaced. Reset the light by finding rectangular box inside left front
wheel with speedo cables running in and out. Find raised nipple on box and
depress center of nipple until it clicks. May take a few tries. I don't
know whether resetting a "partially elapsed" box will bring it back to
zero...in case you push the button now and change the sensor later. If
sensor is still good, no need to replace. In general, if voltage at
junction of sensor wire is varying near half a volt *when measured with a
high-impedance (digital) meter* with the engine warm and running, the
sensor is working and is probably completely ok.
david
David Beierl - Providence, RI
http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon.htm
'84 Westy "Dutiful Passage"
'85 GL "Poor Relation"
