Date:         Fri, 15 Oct 1999 08:13:32 -0700
Reply-To:     "T.P. Stephens" <doktortim@ROCKISLAND.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "T.P. Stephens" <doktortim@ROCKISLAND.COM>
Subject:      Re: Deutsches Methode, Vakuum Schlucks
In-Reply-To:  <3.0.5.32.19991015074503.007aa100@rockisland.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

>>This is a series of submittals addressing basic Maintenance Repair
>>and Restoration of European Vehicles, all of which owe homage to the
>>German Engineering Philosophy, hereinafter refered to as the
>>Deutsches Methode (DM).
>>
>>All Porsche air cooled designs, including of course VW, can be provided
>>the best long term economy by understanding the mind of the good
>>Doktor Porsche and others of the German technical schools who practice
>>the DM. The DM of course is also relevant to the Wasserleaker design.
>
>Today we give you the quick and simple test for vacuum leaks.
>
>Visually inspect the cloth braided hoses. When you bend the hose does it
>break into pieces and fall into the motor??? Replace it. Yeah, and pick
>out all those loose pieces of hose so they don't end up jammed into the
>cylinder fins creating a hot spot and warping a cylinder or ring or three.
>
>Does bending of the hose show reasonable flexibility but the ends are
>frayed and cracking??? Pull the end off and snip 12.31459mm off of it
>and stick it back on it's fitting. Not long enough now???
>Replace it. Ohh, did you check the other end??? Now not long enough???
>Replace it.
>
>The now too short flexible hoses can be used for to replace the
>shorter better fittin' ones that fell to pieces into the cylinders because
>they were 15 years old and you had the spark plugs out due to another
>unrelated inspection procedure going on simultaneously with the current
>one which is not the DM.
>
>Ok, fixed all the obviously delapidated hard carbon rubber remnants???
>On to the quick test, which should be done first, which serves to illustrate
>that you should read the complete procedure through before beginning
>which is the DM.
>
>Hook up your digital tach. Don't have one? Get one. Just ain't got the
>scratch right now here handy??? Use your ears. Prepare for an ethereal
>experiance. Extinguish all open flames in the immediate vicinity before
>proceeding. Start the motor. Rev it a little to burn and blow the hose
>carbon remants out the valves if you didn't use the DM and didn't
>remove the heads to remove the exuvie that you let fall into the
>cylinders because you hadn't yet understood the DM.
>
>While idling veryify there are no occasional
>sparks arcing between the 15 year old HT wires because they serve very well
>to ignite ether as well as gas and you don't need compression to ignite
>ether. Using common Starting Fluid, ether, spray a little at each hose end,
>manifold flange, intake duct, injector seal, etc. See on the tach or hear
>with your ear a rise in RPM following any particular squirt and what you
>were squirting at is sucking wind. If it is leaking very little the ear
can't
>hear but the tach will show it fer sur and you can fix that too before
>you breakdown on the way San Jose, which is not the DM.
>
>On the FI models, push and pull at that big rubber S duct while spraying
>behind it. They have a propensity to get oily on the lower backside and
>develop cracks. If you got them all together, they could form a special
>interest group.
>
>If you have thus VERIFIED all leaky regions, feedback to the beginning
>and start the visual inspection, which serves to illustrate.....
>
>SAFETY NOTES:
>If you don't like breathing ether, every 2 or 3 squirts, come back out
>and take a coupla big breaths. If you do like breathing ether, I rely
>on your prudence to not damage yourself by making some silly mistake
>which is not the DM.

Doktor Tim
Maintenance Repair and Restoration of European Vehicles
San Juan Island, WA