Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 03:58:01 -0500
Reply-To: Marshall Ruskin <mruskin@PANGEA.CA>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Marshall Ruskin <mruskin@PANGEA.CA>
Subject: Re: engine cut out at prolonged steady speed
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
That's OK, I do it too on things I need to know! (I did it on this very
subject last December, as a matter of fact!)
Q: What do you study?
Well, you really should solder it. Try going to a friend or lab at your
school to borrow one - if you try to explain what's going on, they may be
interested enough to help you.
BTW: I was a student for far too many years, and it's no fun being broke!
However, with your stable of vehicles, I'd be broke myself! ;>) You can
probably get a soldering iron cheap at a used tool store, a pawn shop, or in
a newspaper ad or the Buy and Sell paper.
Yes, it will be clearer when you take off the connector and take a look. Try
that first, and see if you see what I've been talking about.
The other fix involves repairing the AFM itself. I've not done it on mine,
but I know about it. It can be opened up to see the condition of the
components inside.
The AFM works like a weathervane in the wind, and is returned to it's home
or closed position by a spring. In any case, an electrical wiper moves with
the motion of the vane or flapper, and makes electrical contact against a
circuit board, like a speed controller or rheostat does.
What goes wrong here, is that eventually the wiper erodes the suface of the
circuit board, and makes for "dead spots" or areas of wear.
There are at least two 2 fixes I know of, both work on getting the wiper to
track in a fresh area of the circuit board:
1: Generally preferred method: remove said circuit board. With a drill,
carefully make the mounting holes slightly "slotted", so that when the board
is remounted, it can be positioned so that the wiper moves on a fresh track.
2: Quicker fix: slightly bend electrical wiper so that it moves on a new
track.
Cheers!
Marshall
-----Original Message-----
From: Timothy Gardner <caninewolf@hotmail.com>
To: mruskin@pangea.ca <mruskin@pangea.ca>
Date: Thursday, April 22, 1999 11:55 PM
Subject: Re: engine cut out at prolonged steady speed
>Ok im bombarding you with questions=) So does it need soldering
>definitally? I do not have a solder gun here at school..guess I
>could buy one at radio shack. Guess im going to have to take off the
>connector to understand what you mean exactly or maybe once I see
>this connector I'll understand. Also I drive an 84 7 passenger
>wolfsburg and it is getting about 10-12mpg right now and I think the
>problem is the air flow box. Also what is this other fix for the Air
>flow box that is free? just incase this one does not work? Thank you
>
>Tim G
>http://www.angelfire.com/vt/psychodelic/
>own:
>84 wolfsburg(222k body(66k engine))
>77 toyota chinook(for sale 2900/obo)(92k)
>ex:
>87 gl syncro(blew tranny at 181k)~Alaska~
>84 ford ranger
>87 dodge colt
>
>
>
>>From: "Marshall Ruskin" <mruskin@pangea.ca>
>>To: "Timothy Gardner" <caninewolf@hotmail.com>
>>Subject: Re: engine cut out at prolonged steady speed
>>Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 22:48:40 -0500
>>
>>
>>>Hello have a question about:
>>>
>>>3. Cheap: ($0.50) connect positive end of 22 microfarad capacitor to
>>>pin 2
>>>of air flow meter connector. Connect negative end of capacitor to
>pin
>>>4 of
>>>connector. The noise signal is then passed directly to ground,
>without
>>>appearing on the computers inputs. Problem solved.
>>>
>>>Does this work for a long period of time...
>>
>>Yes. Untill you'r AFM becomes real bad, and then there's an easy fix
>for
>>that too (this one's free)
>>
>>will it fix the bad gas
>>>milage and all the other problems associated.
>>
>>Westies have bad gas milage, expect ballpark 18-22 MPG Max, except in
>>Colorado, and don't ask me why!
>>
>>If your milage is much worse than that, this may help. If your Westy
>is
>>"bucking" and losing power at random times etc, it will help that,
>if the
>>problem is associated with a noisy AFM, which it definitely could be.
>>
>>Another cause of bucking is a bad coolant temperature sensor. That's
>an
>>under $50 fix at a neighbourhood mechanic. Part is 15 to 30 bucks
>alone, I
>>think. Installation is remove it and replace it, like a spark plug.
>>
>>Does it have any long
>>>term affects on the computer or anything?
>>
>>Negative effects? No, the computer doesn't even know it's there.
>>Essentially, you're protecting the computer from a noisy sensor.
>However,
>>your catalytic converter and exhaust system will thank you, though.
>>
>>What costs .50? The 22 Microfarad 35 Volt Tantalum capacitor, at
>Radio
>>Shack.
>>
>>How easy
>>>is this?
>>
>>Well, you've got to lift up the engine cover, locate the AFM, undo
>the
>>connector, locate pins 2 and 4, and by method you choose, connect
>capacitor
>>between said wires (soldered either directly across or with extra
>wires).
>>It's not as easy as putting air in tires, but if you're willing to
>get
>>dirty, it's not too hard, and it's hard to screw it up.
>>
>>Thank you
>>>
>>
>>You're welcome!
>>
>>Marshall
>>>Tim G
>>>http://www.angelfire.com/vt/psychodelic/
>>>own:
>>>84 wolfsburg(222k body(66k engine))
>>>77 toyota chinook(for sale 2900/obo)(92k)
>>>ex:
>>>87 gl syncro(blew tranny at 181k)~Alaska~
>>>84 ford ranger
>>>87 dodge colt
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>_______________________________________________________________
>>>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>>>
>>
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
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