Date:         Thu, 20 Jun 1996 10:32:00 -0700 (PDT)
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From:         "Maher, Steve (SD-MS)" <SMAHER@gi.com>
Subject:      RE: Hi Again + 1962 timing help


>This van has a 1966 engine..
>The crankshaft pulley has TWO notches in it -- Muir says in an early
>edition that the first (LH) notch is 7.5deg. BTDC , and the second (RH)
>notch is 10deg. BTDC.  Is this right?
>According to a later copy of Muir I should have 3 timing notches.

Most type-1 engines have swapped pullies at one time or another, that
I've seen anyway. I've found little correlation between Muir and what's
on the bench in front of me, probably for that reason I'd guess.

But yes, the only constant seems to be the pullies with two marks about
1/8" (three mm for you metric types) apart. As far as I know, the left
mark is 7.5, and the right is 10 BTDC. Some pullies with these two marks,
also have a third mark to their left around 1/2" (10-12 mm). This, if
you have it, is TDC.


>My boyfriend has taught me a presumably unorthodox timing method
>without using a static light. Set the engine at 7.5deg BTDC (or whatever),
>set the distributor at the exact point it sparks as you rotate it.
>
>What advantages are there to using a light over this method?

I haven't used that exact method, but something pretty similar. I hesitate
to time by turning the distributor without rotating the engine, since
slop can creep in due to the lash (less-than-perfect fit) between the
various distributor drive gears.

I pull the center wire, then rotate the engine slowly clockwise until the
pulley notches approach the crankcase crack. then I listen veerrrrry
carefully as I keep rotating the engine, for a tiny "tick" inside the
distributor, which is the points opening. That fires the plug, or would
if the center wire was in place. You need a quiet place to do this-- no
dogs barking or cars rushing by.

If you miss the "tick" sound, DON'T back the engine off counter-clockwise
and try again. That wouldn't damage anything, but the gear lash might
put the distributor in a slightly false position for the next firing
until the engine rotates far enough to take up the lash. This might be
what is causing your spark to show up in strange places. Just keep turning
clockwise till they come around again.

Another possible cause of a jumpy spark, might be worn distributor shaft
bearings. Pull off the cap and rotor, grab the shaft, and give it a
hard shake. It shouldn't move side to side at all. If it moves even a
little, it's time for a new or rebuilt distributor. Rotational play is
a different matter-- they can turn quite a ways (by hand) with no harm.

You might also want to call a knowledgeable VW place with the serial
number from your distributor, and ask them if both #1 and #3 fire at the
same advance angle. On 009's, for one example, #3 is retarded several
degrees from the other plugs. Anybody know if other distributors have
this characteristic?

The reason to keep an eye on this, is because when you static-time your
engine by hand, half the time #1 plug fires when the pulley notch hits
the crack, and the other half #3 plug fires when it hits the crack. If
you set it by #3 and your distributor is one of the #3-offset types, you
might be a few degrees away from where you expected to be.

You can avoid this, of course, by making sure the distributor rotor is
pointing at the #1 cap post when the marks come to the crack. On most
upright engines I've seen, it points at #1 when it's pointing at the front
passenger's seat. Trace the plug wire from the right front (FIF) plug
to make sure.

>The spark was all over the place - big difference in strength & position.
>Would this be because the point gap was wrong? (that was a nightmare
>too... I need to get some emery paper & file it down & try again).

Aye Yie Yie... sounds like my old college days, when I used to scrounge
for change to put gas in my Type-3. Yes, if your points are old and have
a big stalactite on them, then the contact can vary somewhat, and the
apparent point gap (and timing) can vary with each spark. Filing them back
down can cure that for a while, but your points are on borrowed time.
I'd get some new ones soon if possible.


>specific advice & general encouragement welcome.

Welcome back!   :^)


>Bonus question: does it matter that I broke a little piece out of the
>generator pulley? I've effectively lengthened one of the notches, but
>haven't warped it.

Nope, doesn't matter to the operation of the engine. But it might make it
a little tougher to loosen the pulley next time, if the flat corner of
the notch gets rounded off. If worse comes to worst, clamp some vicegrips
on the rim of the pulley to hold it. But be careful-- this CAN warp the
pulley sometimes. A last resort only.


>Sarah
>'62 Dormobile

Gotta ask-- what is a Dormobile? An English/European version of a Kombi?
Inquiring minds want to know.

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