Date: Tue, 05 Sep 95 13:09:40 PDT
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@vanagon.com>
From: Nick Pace <nickpace@rand.org>
Subject: VW-HINTS FOR LONG BLOCK PURCHASE FOR A 71 DUAL PORT BUS
Decided to buy a replacement long block the other day and wound up
returning the little sucker back to the places of purchase a couple of
times because I failed to take the time to give it a good inspection
first. I thought that teling the sales person that I wanted a dual port
1600 for my 71 bus was enough and reliance upon his/her assurances would
be sufficent. I merely checked to see if it had the proper holes in the
intake ports and that it looked clean. Obviously, that simply didn't cut
it. The next time I do this (hopefully 100k miles from now), I'm going
to...
1) Again check the intake ports holes (no problem this time but it might
come up in the future).
2) Check to make sure that it is a universal case. These have the mount
points for the rear carrier for the bus. The first block I bought didn't
have this even though I asked (NEVER, NEVER GO TO JERRY'S VW HEAVEN IN LOS
ANGELES, CALIFORNIA) and I was too stupid to check. Found out this little
surprise at 300am. Wanted to cry but I was too tired.
3) Check to make sure that it has the proper HOLES in the universal mount
points. After returning the first block for the problem noted in hint #2
above (and others), I went to another parts shop (Steve's in Downey, CA)
with a better reputation. The sales person told me he had a block for a
71 bus but when I got there, the block simply didn't look right. He said
he was sorry but would sell me the mounting adapter at a discount. I
thought that this would be a good idea since I would then be able to take
any 1600 block if I needed an emergency replacement somewhere outside of
Zacatecas. Got home, put my filthy clothes on, and then realized that the
block did indeed have the mounting points of a universal case but without
the holes. The adapter won't work if the mounting points are there.
Called the place of purchase and was told to simply make the holes as
needed and if I did a good job, I might not even void the warranty. How
stupid of me not to include a machine shop drill press in my tool box. Of
course, I insisted that they exchange the block for the proper one but
that took a week and a half.
4) With 71 Bus block, check to make sure that the upper left mounting
point has the nut pressed in already. With earlier engines, not having
the nut pressed in can be easier since driving the bolt from underneath
the Bus with the clutch cable and the rest of that crap is very difficult.
However, the 71's fan housing has extra gizmos that make it, at least for
me, impossible to attach the nut in any way shape or form without having
someone else to help you and having the manual dexerity of a brain
surgeon. Still haven't figured what I'm going to do on that score.
5) Take a handful of brand new 10, 11, 13, and 17mm nuts with you to the
store. Everyone claims (or at least should claim) that the studs are new.
Ha! The exhaust manifold studs on my new long block is as beat up as the
ones off of my old one. They won't allow me to really cinch down to
exhaust nuts and I can already hear the subtle beginnings of an exhaust
gasket blowout. Yes, I could have stopped work at that point and took it
back but on a Sunday afternoon with the end in sight and the need to be
able to drive to work Monday morning looming ahead (and no spare vehicle),
all I wanted to do was finish the freakin' thing (I also didn't want to
change the studs myself since there might well be a good reason why they
were unable, or unwilling, to put new ones in). Next time, I'm going
test every stud on the block in the store first and if the nut won't spin
on easily, pass the block on by.
6) Like the test nuts, I might also take my new replacement spark plugs.
I'm really worried about my #2 since it took a heap of effort to get it
in. If the hole is shot, or they have a defective heli-coil in there, you
want to know about it ASAP.
7) Get the warranty info materials before purchase. The first block I
bought was represented to me to be an ATK engine (a very good Southern
California rebuilder). When I asked the saleperson (at Jerry's) about the
papers (after we had loaded it into the car), he said, "just call ATK and
they'll send you what you need". When I called ATK Engines for the
paperwork, they told me that the block couldn't have been made by them.
The Consumer Fraud people are looking into this now but luckily the case
was not for Busses (see hint #1 above) and I was unable to install it
before I found out later.
8) Read the warranty and find out exactly what you have to do. I made the
mistake of driving 45 miles from my house in Malibu (one way) to the parts
place (Steve's in Downey) to buy a quality long block. The engine is
actually made by someone else (Mr. Bill's in Paramount, CA). The
warranty said that immediately after installation, I was required to go to
the rebuilder for an inspection before the warranty kicked in. OK, I
could live with that. Then, it turns out that I have to return in 300-500
miles for a valve adjustment. That means that I will have travelled 270
miles just for long block purchase. OK, I guess I could live with this
too. However, I will have to pay $35 for the freakin' manditory valve
adjustment (magnamimously reduced from their normal price of $55!). That
means that the true cost of the rebuilt is $35 more than advertised (if I
had known that, I would have bought the engine from a place in Torrance,
CA called J. Serrano's that has no such requirements). First, valve
adjustments take, even under the worst conditions, no more that 15 easy
minutes of effort so this is price gouging at it's worst. Second, the
only valve adjuster that I trust is me so I'll probably recheck them
anyway. Third, the engine needs to be completely cold so unless I'm going
to leave it there overnight (ala Muir), I'll have to wait 4 or 5 hours
while it gets done. Grrrrrrrr.....
9) Buy the long block no more that 9 miles away from where you install it
(See the previous hint). One consideration, among others, is that should
there be any sort of problem with the engine after install, to have the
rebuilders check it out, you have to drive it back. If the situation is
serious, you should tow it. Triple A (AAA) gives you four free tows a
year but only up to 10 miles each. My newly installed engine is running
hot (yes, the timing, the valve adjustment, the fan output, and the
shrouding is perfect) and my only choice is to hope and pray that the
thing doesn't meltdown before I can get it to the rebuilders (remember, my
warranty won't start UNTIL I get it there). Wish me luck.
10) Get a good sense of their core exchange attitude. Nobody replaces a
perfectly running engine and the rebuilder should realize this. However,
as I was leaving, they began to tell me the penalties involved with less
than perfect core components ($75 for bad heads, $150 for a bad case,
etc....). I'm sure that this is an excuse for another nickle-and-dime
effort to disguise the true cost of the engine. I'm sure that Steve's/Mr.
Bill's is going to make me eat the core charge. With that, and the valve
adjustment charge, the $435 for the long block is now $620
($435+$150+$35). J. Serrano's in Torrance, CA told me that they didn't
care what condition the core was in. Should have gone there but I really
haven't heard much about the quality of their rebuilds.
11) See if they include the gasket kit ($20) with the rebuild. Also, buy
extra sheet metal screws and 13mm nuts since you will probably not have
enough. Had to "borrow" some from the washing machine. Hope the wife
doesn't find out.....
12) Engine clean your old before yanking it and breaking it down. This is
a Muir hint that I neglect to follow each and everytime I begin the
process.
13) I strongly suggest that you buy the long block with the crankshaft
pully already installed. I always have a tough time trying to pull off
the old one without damaging it or the case. If they don't include one,
buy one of those cool chrome ones with the degrees marked all the way
around so you don't even have to bother to remove the old one BUT DON'T
BUY A "POWER PULLY" TYPE BECAUSE YOU'LL HAVE TO GET ALL NEW FAN BELT
HOSES!!!!!
Any other things I SHOULD have done?????
Nick
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