Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2019 09:01:59 -0600
Reply-To: OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@COMCAST.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@COMCAST.NET>
Subject: Re: radiator fan and A/C
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR20MB2098E4ABB7803982E3720750A0C10@BL0PR20MB2098.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
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I think a slightly more accurate description might be >
Remove Fuse Box, Look to the left & Up Slightly to find Ground Stars,
Look above Ground Stars to find Rad'Fan HighSpeed Relay & FusibleLink ~
On 25 Jul , 2019, at 2:47 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
> That high speed relay rarely fails. Can you get two speeds jumping the switch? If so just replace the switch and see what happens. You should have some other means to test coolant temperature at various locations to be able to diagnose the system. Infrared guns are very helpful after you learn to use and can get consistent readings. That relay is above the fuse box. Dropping the fuse box will make it visible. There is a fuse link on the socket.
>
> Dennis
>
> From: Dan N <dn92610@gmail.com>
> Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2019 2:58 PM
> To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: radiator fan and A/C
>
> thanks Dennis,
>
> so the cut A/C circuitry is not related to the rad fan behavior...
>
> could you please tell me the exact location of the high speed rad. fan relay and the number on it... thanks
> I will replace the radiator fan switch and that relay... the resistor is fairly new ( 2 years old)
>
> dan
>
> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 11:40 AM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com<mailto:d23haynes57@hotmail.com>> wrote:
> If you can make 2 radiator fan speeds work by jumping the radiator fan switch than wiring is not your problem. For the low speed the fan the switch actually carries the current for the fan motor and the current-speed is limited by the resistor. This makes for a common failure of the switch. For high speed another relay, mounted above the fuse box is energized bring power direct from the battery to the fan motor to get the fastest speed possible. That high speed also disabled the AC compressor.
>
> So if that is working the next step is to test-replace the fan switch. The switches are available in a number of different temperature settings. The originals were set quite high to avoid nuisance running during hot weather. As the switch is sensing the coolant leaving the radiator it is normal for engine temperature to rise sometimes significantly before the fan is called for. Centered or just above the LED is where the engine temperature gauge should be normally. It is possible that due to a bad stat you may be running below temp so it will take longer for the coolant in the radiator to heat up to where the fan is needed.
>
> If the engine is truly running too hot and the fan switch is not sensing it you can have a coolant flow issue. A clogged or worse a radiator with internal section cracks can allow coolant to enter and exit without actually traveling through the core. If the engine case is damaged from a past water pump collision you may also have insufficient flow at idle for the radiator fan switch to work.
>
> Dennis
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