Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2018 16:16:14 -0500
Reply-To: Mark Pinnell <mark.stuart.pinnell@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Mark Pinnell <mark.stuart.pinnell@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Fwd: Fuel System or Electronic?
In-Reply-To: <CAKunw3Sm4cTFKMUxV0=KO_0uNHgKq-kStyKOS=K2foWM9ySoYg@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
Sorry, but Im back...
Since my initial post, I have done a number of things to try to sort out
the rough start, rough idle, rough running issue. (FYI - Pearl is an 1985
1.9l digijet with just over 120k miles on her.)
New plugs installed.
Plug wire resistance within specs, but will replace them as they are due
anyway.
Coil wire is 6000 ohms, so I will replace .
Will also replace distributor cap and rotor, but both looked OK (I did
swap out both with used backups, and tested rotor resistance).
There is no TPS switch - not a two switch or single switch (?). Is this an
outlier?
Primary coil resistance is 1 ohm (a little high).
Secondary coil resistance is 2900 ohms, so OK.
Bridged terminals on temp II sensor - no change.
Connected plugs on idle stabilizer - no change.
Resistance on intake air sensor plug was 580 ohms, so also within range.
There was a vacuum line from the distributor to the intake manifold
disconnected, but as it made no difference when connected, I am guessing
that I may have knocked it off while doing something else.
Unable to find any vacuum leaks, and all hoses and connections look good
(previously replaced).
Checked and cleaned all ground connections. No change.
Pulled fuel filter (pre-filter), checked fuel pump relay and fuel flow
from return line. All good and fuel looked good.
Pulled cat and muffler off to inspect. No obstructions and there is good
exhaust flow at tailpipe.
Hall unit sender on distributor was broken where it attaches to the
distributor body, so I will be getting a new one. Thinking (hoping) that it
may be the culprit (along with coil wire). Is there a way to test/isolate
it for diagnostic purposes?
Any merit to adding a fuel injector cleaner? I did not pull the injectors.
Am I missing anything? I guess I will have to buy a kit to do a leak down
test, but was going to replace items listed above and see if there is any
improvement first.
Any suggestions would be appreciated, as my tiny, pea-sized brain is
running out of options.
Thanks in advance,
Mark
---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: Mark Pinnell <mark.stuart.pinnell@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, Nov 13, 2018, 5:04 PM
Subject: Fuel System or Electronic?
To: Vanagon <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
A little back story first. Recently returned from a 2300+ mile trip from
our home base in Ontario (last trip of the season as she goes into storage
in two weeks). Pearl, our 1985 Westfalia performed flawlessly for a thirty
plus year old vehicle, until the last 60 miles. I could feel a sudden loss
of power at 60 mph and, although she did get us to a nearby rest area, she
did not want to idle and I had to pump the accelerator pedal to keep the
revs up to get her to a parking spot. When we came back out, it was a very
rough start and again had to push/pump the accelerator to keep her going.
As we were close to home, we decided to try to limp home.
Basically had to keep the pedal near the mat on flat ground, could let up a
little on the downhill, and matted her anytime there was a hill. The
passing gear cut in below 50 mph and she sounded OK above 3000+ rpm.
Thankfully, we got her home without further incident...
When I cycle the key, the fuel pump does do its thing for a very brief
(maybe a second) time, but it sounds quieter than normal.
Did some research and checked that the fuses in the front fuse block are OK
(they are), switched the two relays inside the covered box on the right
side of the engine compartment to test the fuel pump relay and reversed the
polarity on the fuel pump in case there were any stuck particles/sediment
affecting the operation. I also inspected the white plastic tanks and all
of the fuel lines that I could trace for cracks and/or leaks,but nothing to
report. She does sound normal when and if I can coax the rpms up.
Net result = 0. Symptoms remain the same.
I will next check for fuel flow, and while my gut tells me fuel pump, just
wanted to get wiser/more experienced views as to how I might proceed. I'm
guessing that it may be electrical as well, or in addition to.
I put a new fuel filter in before we left, and the spark plugs probably
have 25,000 miles on them, but as I have new ones I plan on replacing both
tomorrow (weather permitting as we may get 8-10" of snow tonight).
I apologize for the lengthy post, but figured the more information the
group had, the better.
Any guidance, thoughts or direction would be greatly appreciated.
Mark
