Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2018 12:02:27 -0500
Reply-To: KIM BRENNAN <kimbrennan@MAC.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: KIM BRENNAN <kimbrennan@MAC.COM>
Subject: Re: Locks, Keys Refurbed by Steve Sandlin
In-Reply-To: <CAHrsyzw71xy5TUsyUxCQ2joM4s9Onc4XnnMKH8Pzd_AuiEzTFQ@mail.gmail.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
On the last replacement door handle I got, I took apart the lock (posted about that previously), I was actually surprised to find the lock cylinder filled with grease. When I rebuild these I generally just clean them up and leave them dry. Triflow is what I’ve used on bicycle chains for a while (back when I was doing my own bicycle maintenance).
> On Jan 29, 2018, at 8:59 AM, Karl Ploessl <karl.ploessl@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>
> I had an email exchange with Steve Sandlin and he does not support the use
> of graphite: from our email: "...The rear hatch is not difficult to remove,
> but as I recall the inner trim panel must be removed. I would try cleaning
> and lubricating in place. Get some carburetor cleaner or electronic
> cleaner with a spray tube. Spray through the key slot and work a key in
> and out. Do this a number of times until the cleaner running out is
> clean. Allow it to dry for a few minutes, then lubricate the lock. I
> would strongly suggest TriFlow. Many bicycle shops and some good hardware
> stores stock it. I've not found it at the big box stores, however. Do not
> use graphite or WD40. They will gum it up. I really suspect graphite had
> been used fairly liberally in the past on the handle I tore down. Te flush
> and lube procedure, though not as good as a full teardown, is generally
> effective."...
>
> Karl.
>
> On Sun, Jan 28, 2018 at 9:45 PM, Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@sbcglobal.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Couple years ago I sent to Steve the code from inside of door handle of my
>> 85 Tintop; easily accessible by gently moving back foam door weatherstrip,
>> and then only 1 screw on door handle to remove handle assembly. I bought a
>> steel key from him as opposed to softer brass; has worked flawlessly on all
>> doors and ignition. Stuff wears out and things get sloppy; Steve is a
>> great resource.
>>
>> Go ahead...get a new key(s) from him. And be worry free for next 30
>> years. And find a nifty place under chassis to Duct Tape a spare
>> key....I've got my secret place..no, go the extra step beyond one of those
>> cheapo magnetic box thingies... black Duct Tape, well wrapped, hidden
>> nicely. Ready.
>> Also...I am a big believer in graphite powder for door locks. "Puff" it
>> into the key channel via the handy plastic squeeze tube; shake up the tube
>> first. Available at Home Depot. Those 5 floating thingies, I forget the
>> name, but the things on springs inside lock mechanism that either engage or
>> don't engage the notches on the key; they need to be able to move up and
>> down freely in all kinds of weather conditions....hence the warning against
>> temporary solutions like WD-40 sprays or Tri-Flow and the like, they can
>> freeze up and/or attract constricting dirt.
>> If you have used liquid lubricant in the past to try to better door locks,
>> there is probably a method to remove that crud and do it right.
>> Steve himself might also chime in. Anyway, nothing as frustrating as
>> trying to enter and no go.
>>
>> Rich
>> San Diego
>>
>> From: Steve Williams <sbw@SBW.ORG>
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2018 4:55 PM
>> Subject: Locks, Keys Refurbed by Steve Sandlin
>>
>> Steve Sandlin did a great job on my locks and keys this month, so I want
>> to add my voice to everyone here who has recommended him! If you need
>> any work done on your locks, contact Steve right away.
>>
>> http://www.steveslockshop.com/volkswagen.html
>>
>> Don't be like me: I put up with frustrations for far too long, even
>> after I saw Steve recommended here. I should have asked for his expert
>> help much sooner.
>>
>> When I got my '84 Westy in 2009, it came with only two, badly-cut keys.
>> They were cut correctly only on one side, so they only worked one way in
>> the locks. Somebody had cut a notch in one side of the steel key as a
>> reminder of the right way. But the key with the rubber VW bow often
>> fooled me, so it was a constant frustration.
>>
>> And over the years, the front door locks got dirtier inside, so they
>> were difficult to operate. Except on the side of the van that had sun
>> shining on it for a few hours. Apparently the sun would melt the grimy
>> ear wax stuck in the lock, so it was easier to turn.
>>
>> Then I got a new old stock sliding door handle, which came with its own
>> key, and I was too lazy to reach out to Steve to get it re-keyed to
>> match my van. I couldn't be troubled to carry two keys, so I just
>> reached in from the front passenger door to lock and unlock the slider.
>>
>> I wasn't sure how to send my front door handles to Steve and still keep
>> the van secure, since it's parked outside. When I asked, Steve offered
>> to send me loaner handles for the few days it would take to send him my
>> handles, let him do the work, and get them back. (I didn't bother with
>> a loaner for the sliding door, since it's unlikely a thief would know
>> how to operate it without the handle.)
>>
>> I sent Steve the three handles and one of the badly-cut keys for
>> verification. (The ignition and hatch lock were working fine.) In a
>> few days, he sent them back, clean and keyed alike. And two new steel
>> keys and two new rubber keys, cut correctly so they work either way.
>>
>> I put the handles on and tried all four keys in the doors and the
>> ignition both ways, and they all work smoothly. Yipee!
>>
>> Even better, Steve's fee was very modest. Why did I ever wait so long!
>>
>> Thanks, Steve!
>>
>> https://sbw.org/sbwsty/
>>
>>
>>
>>
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