Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2017 19:13:21 -0400
Reply-To: Laura Mangan <laurakmangan@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Laura Mangan <laurakmangan@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: No Start & Sliding door handle'
In-Reply-To: <CAOXGjpmsPLJtL8rvowScP+G3BPA18iipFj=wQ4DEFvJ=N-zpgA@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
I will have to check this out! Thanks George. I do hear the fuel pump. I
replaced the fuel pump in March also. (well, a stellar shop in Charlotte NC
did)
So, i am hearing buzzing (oil light) when i put the key in the ignition,
the dash is illuminated, and when i turn the key over.... I hear the fuel
pump whirl, but not even the slightest attempt at a crank (turning over)
I'll crawl underneath when i have time and inspect the starter. hope all is
okay under there (its brand new as of March)
Many thanks!
Laura
On Fri, Jun 9, 2017 at 12:12 AM, George Gaudette <gcgaudette@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Laura. I just went through a no-start situation myself, and am not
> mechanically experienced. The problem was the starter, and this video was
> helpful in getting me familiar with the starter and how to access it:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HkA1GYQnvY&t=258s
>
> You can see the starter wire connection at the solenoid (that Jim and Jason
> mentioned) at 4:10, when it gets pulled off. Point being that if you're
> are willing and able to get under your van with a flashlight -- ** never
> with the van supported by only a jack ** -- whether or not that wire fell
> off is something you could check for free. You can see it without removing
> stuff if you're patient looking for it. Just be careful what you touch,
> live wires there.
>
> I'm curious if you hear the fuel pump whiz when you turn the key to Start?
>
> -George
> '90 Westy Camper Automatic
>
> I feel like mine could totally fall off at any moment!
>
> On Tue, Jun 6, 2017 at 8:14 PM, Jason <uberhare@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > In usually give the crimp a bit of squeeze while I'm changing one if that
> > wire is at all loose.
> >
> > Jason
> > Uberbus
> >
> > On Jun 6, 2017 8:01 PM, "Jim Arnott" <jrasite@eoni.com> wrote:
> >
> > > “The dash is lighting up, when i turn the key, it doesn't even try to
> > turn
> > > over….”
> > >
> > > “New starter in March.”
> > >
> > > Me? I’d look first that the wire from the key switch is attached to the
> > > solenoid. Mine has been known to fall off on occasion. Especially after
> > > messing with it. “New starter in March.” indicates ‘messed with.'
> > >
> > > Handle - Get another one. There’s one small screw that holds the lock
> > > cylinder. Remove it, exchange lock cylinders, replace it. All done.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > On Jun 6, 2017, at 3:07 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > There can be a number of reasons for a "no crank" situation on any
> car.
> > > Having a known good battery is the first place to "start"! Part of that
> > is
> > > to have a meter and know how to use it to test voltage at the battery
> and
> > > other places while trying to crank it. From remote folks here can
> suggest
> > > many different things to look at but without some knowledge and tools
> you
> > > are simply replacing parts until it runs. So here are some places to
> > start:
> > > > Battery, to know it is good it needs to be load tested. A good auto
> > > parts store may have one. Having 12 volts at rest does not mean it will
> > > work when you ask it to produce 200 amps.
> > > > Starter- it is common for the Bosch units to have bad brushes or
> > > solenoids making them intermittent.
> > > > Ignition switch and wiring. Many have added boost relays to get past
> > > these problems. If automatic the neutral switch is also suspect.
> > > > Battery and ground cables. They can look good and not be! Again,
> > testing
> > > under load.
> > > > Horror of horrors! Something wrong with engine.
> > > >
> > > > Since it ran before it sat the battery is suspect and so is a used
> one.
> > > Batteries don’t tolerate neglect and letting them discharge and go dead
> > > especially in winter will destroy them. If new battery doesn’t do it
> then
> > > consider you may have a bad starter. Was it installed at a shop?
> > Warranty?
> > > >
> > > > Dennis
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Dennis
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
> > Behalf
> > > Of Laura Mangan
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, June 6, 2017 4:35 PM
> > > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > > > Subject: No Start & Sliding door handle'
> > > >
> > > > '85 1.9L Vanagon
> > > > Potter Co. North Central PA
> > > >
> > > > Hi Folks,
> > > >
> > > > My van wont start....
> > > >
> > > > All was well when i last drove it (admittedly, almost a month ago)
> Now,
> > > it wont start. I tried to jump start it, And no luck. took the battery
> to
> > > NAPA, and turns out, one of the cells or something, is fried. Okay.
> > > >
> > > > So, i have another newish battery, i try that... No luck. Try to jump
> > > start with the new battery. Nothing.
> > > >
> > > > So, i take the battery out, put it on a trickle charger to make sure
> > its
> > > charged. Yep. No luck, once again.
> > > >
> > > > The dash is lighting up, when i turn the key, it doesn't even try to
> > > turn over....
> > > >
> > > > New starter in March.
> > > >
> > > > Any thoughts?
> > > >
> > > > Also..... My exterior sliding door handle broke off beyond the key
> > hole.
> > > > So, locking mechanism is functional, but i cannot open it from the
> > > outside.
> > > >
> > > > Short of replacing the entire unit (and getting another key) what
> can i
> > > do?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks.
> > > >
> > > > Hopeless and not even a slight bit mechanically inclined,
> > > >
> > > > Laura
> > >
> >
> >
> On Tue, Jun 6, 2017 at 8:14 PM, Jason <uberhare@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > In usually give the crimp a bit of squeeze while I'm changing one if that
> > wire is at all loose.
> >
> > Jason
> > Uberbus
> >
> > On Jun 6, 2017 8:01 PM, "Jim Arnott" <jrasite@eoni.com> wrote:
> >
> > > “The dash is lighting up, when i turn the key, it doesn't even try to
> > turn
> > > over….”
> > >
> > > “New starter in March.”
> > >
> > > Me? I’d look first that the wire from the key switch is attached to the
> > > solenoid. Mine has been known to fall off on occasion. Especially after
> > > messing with it. “New starter in March.” indicates ‘messed with.'
> > >
> > > Handle - Get another one. There’s one small screw that holds the lock
> > > cylinder. Remove it, exchange lock cylinders, replace it. All done.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > On Jun 6, 2017, at 3:07 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > There can be a number of reasons for a "no crank" situation on any
> car.
> > > Having a known good battery is the first place to "start"! Part of that
> > is
> > > to have a meter and know how to use it to test voltage at the battery
> and
> > > other places while trying to crank it. From remote folks here can
> suggest
> > > many different things to look at but without some knowledge and tools
> you
> > > are simply replacing parts until it runs. So here are some places to
> > start:
> > > > Battery, to know it is good it needs to be load tested. A good auto
> > > parts store may have one. Having 12 volts at rest does not mean it will
> > > work when you ask it to produce 200 amps.
> > > > Starter- it is common for the Bosch units to have bad brushes or
> > > solenoids making them intermittent.
> > > > Ignition switch and wiring. Many have added boost relays to get past
> > > these problems. If automatic the neutral switch is also suspect.
> > > > Battery and ground cables. They can look good and not be! Again,
> > testing
> > > under load.
> > > > Horror of horrors! Something wrong with engine.
> > > >
> > > > Since it ran before it sat the battery is suspect and so is a used
> one.
> > > Batteries don’t tolerate neglect and letting them discharge and go dead
> > > especially in winter will destroy them. If new battery doesn’t do it
> then
> > > consider you may have a bad starter. Was it installed at a shop?
> > Warranty?
> > > >
> > > > Dennis
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Dennis
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
> > Behalf
> > > Of Laura Mangan
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, June 6, 2017 4:35 PM
> > > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > > > Subject: No Start & Sliding door handle'
> > > >
> > > > '85 1.9L Vanagon
> > > > Potter Co. North Central PA
> > > >
> > > > Hi Folks,
> > > >
> > > > My van wont start....
> > > >
> > > > All was well when i last drove it (admittedly, almost a month ago)
> Now,
> > > it wont start. I tried to jump start it, And no luck. took the battery
> to
> > > NAPA, and turns out, one of the cells or something, is fried. Okay.
> > > >
> > > > So, i have another newish battery, i try that... No luck. Try to jump
> > > start with the new battery. Nothing.
> > > >
> > > > So, i take the battery out, put it on a trickle charger to make sure
> > its
> > > charged. Yep. No luck, once again.
> > > >
> > > > The dash is lighting up, when i turn the key, it doesn't even try to
> > > turn over....
> > > >
> > > > New starter in March.
> > > >
> > > > Any thoughts?
> > > >
> > > > Also..... My exterior sliding door handle broke off beyond the key
> > hole.
> > > > So, locking mechanism is functional, but i cannot open it from the
> > > outside.
> > > >
> > > > Short of replacing the entire unit (and getting another key) what
> can i
> > > do?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks.
> > > >
> > > > Hopeless and not even a slight bit mechanically inclined,
> > > >
> > > > Laura
> > >
> >
>
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