Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2016 16:22:05 -0800
Reply-To: thewestyman <zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: thewestyman <zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET>
Subject: Re: To test a Thermo time switch, air-cooled
In-Reply-To: <CY1PR20MB002949370A1414AA38CEDA2CA0990@CY1PR20MB0029.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="UTF-8"; reply-type=original
As I was digging a little deeper into this van, I noticed, the cold start
valve, csv, is directly connected to the solenoid on one end, the other end
is to ground. That way, as I think, it will only work while one is winding
the engine with the starter. That maybe enough.
I think, this van has some wiring trouble. For one, the brown plug that
goes to the Thermo time switch has no continuity as the other van I have
has. And the blue plug that should go to the Cold start valve does not give
me voltage either.
I think, should show 12 or something that would open the injector.
Zoltan
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Haynes
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2016 7:03 AM
To: 'thewestyman' ; vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: RE: To test a Thermo time switch, air-cooled
The starting injector "Thermal Time Switch" is a bit of an interesting
device. It is more than just a switch. It function is to operating the
enrichment injector Based on engine/ambient temperature it turns on the
injector for a determined time while the engine is being started. It gets
its power-signal from the starter circuit, not the ignition.
The important part of TTS is that it has a heater in it. So while the engine
is being cranked the heater will warm up which will open the switch. In
moderate weather the enrichment vales will usually operate for only a few
seconds. Continued cranking and even repeats this heater will disable the
valve to prevent flooding.
The wiring to the TTS is critical. Yes, it does matter which wire goes to
which terminal. Checking the switch with it closed both contact will show
continuity to ground. Once open one will still be connected to the heater.
The other will not. This is the contact that needs to go to the valve. It
happens occasionally that the valve will get clogged. The switches rarely
fail. I think the operation of this circuit may rely on a contact on the
starter solenoid itself. There are many places in this circuit that may need
to be checked.
From experience when I get these vehicles with cold start problems first I
check the ignition, then next is compression/leak down. Loose heads or
burned valves/dead cylinders is the cause more often than a fuel injection
problem.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
thewestyman
Sent: Friday, December 9, 2016 7:33 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: To test a Thermo time switch, air-cooled
Hi to all,
It is an old air-cooled engine. Has starting trouble cold.
I am to test the Thermo time switch. I can’t find instruction in the
“Bible”, only to test the wire that leads to it.
That test says; your test light will light up when you turn on the starter.
Fine.
I only checked continuity there and it has.
Now, I just don’t know what it the best way to check the switch while it’s
in the car. As You all know, it is under the air distribution box and other
wires and the fuel lines are all in the way. Only with a long pair of
pliers can I get the plug on or off.
I imagine, the switch is to make contact and no-contact to close a circuit.
Question; what should the position be while it’s cold. Continuity or not.
Best wishes to all,
Zoltan
