Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2016 16:22:23 -0500
Reply-To: John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Idle stabilizer control
In-Reply-To: <CA+az7_4S5K+i9hkNG+088ru7FiY7_U9yG6YSOv5WQPu8Qz_6Yw@mail.gmail.com>
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The problem I was having was that box would go all the way down flush with
the socket, but when I let go it would spring back apart. Very frustrating.
John
On Jul 9, 2016 15:41, "OlRivrRat" <OlRivrRat@comcast.net> wrote:
@ John & Steve
One of the 1st things I do when trying to Diag' an improper Idle
RPM is to
Unplug that ControlMod', Spray the Blades & the Socket with ContactCleaner &
ReInsert the ICM back into its socket ~ All of that being done with the
Socket
being Removed from its Bracket so that the whole ICM+Socket can be dealt
with
outside the TailLightHole ~ I have never had 1 that would not
ReseatCompletely
but HaveHad numerous that took a Considerable Amount of Force to get them in
where they should be ~ That last 1/16"' Lots of the time, Snaps In ~
ORR ~ DeanB
On 9 Jul , 2016, at 1:50 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
> What I finally did: I found that th socket in whick the contol box fits,
> come right out with wires attached. There is a mounting block attached by
> two screws to the sheet metal on the wheel well. This block is not
intended
> to be moved, but it can be. Not neccesary most times however. The block is
> keyed so that keys on the receptacle with cable attached can be lifted
out.
> Once done, you have the cable, the receptacle and the stabilizer in your
> hand. They may be difficult to separate, but with judicious handling it
can
> be done. Plugging the stabilzer box into the recepticle can be a chore..I
> was unsble to get the blades of the stabilzer to recess all the way. Had
> about 1/16" gaposis left. I finally took some rubber-like 1" tape and
> applied to the front and sides over the gap.on the back, there was little
I
> could do. Left the gap there uncovered. Put the box and plug in place,
> installed the tail light fixture. Turned on the ignition and checked the
> stabilizer valve. It was humming nicely. Started the engine, let it idle a
> bit then raised the rpm. The stabilzer system worked, as the system held
> rpm at 1200 to 1500 rpm with the AC on and running,
>
> I didn't check the power steering aspect of this.
>
> Next project - (1) try and get the tach on line (works sometimes -
> sometimes not), (2) troubleshoot the cruise control and repair/adjust it.
> (3) install sound deadening material (3M) in the engine compartment.
>
> John
> On Jul 9, 2016 13:52, "Stephen Engel" <sengel543@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I have the same problem. I was thinking weather resistant duct tape. It's
>> really difficult to manipulate the tape in that confined space though. A
>> big blob of dielectric grease? Seal the whole "chamber"?
>>
>> Steve
>> 87 Syncro 2.1 WBX
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Jul 9, 2016, at 1:16 PM, John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>>>
>>> I am replacing the failed unit, but find that the new unit won't seat
all
>>> the way. Has about a1/16th or so gap from being fully seated. This
>> exposes
>>> it to moisture.
>>>
>>> Anyone have any ideas as to how to seat the thing in the socket?
>>>
>>> John
>>
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