Date: Sun, 8 May 2016 11:09:56 -0700
Reply-To: Alistair Bel <albell@SHAW.CA>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Alistair Bel <albell@SHAW.CA>
Subject: Re: striking caution by dennis
In-Reply-To: <04F2773E-1380-4707-9ACA-50F6A5F1A6EC@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
It's too hard :-)
> On May 8, 2016, at 9:46 AM, OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@COMCAST.NET> wrote:
>
> I've occasionally wondered why one of our Van'Fam' Fabricators (Alistair or ?) hasn't come up with a
>
> Torque Multiplier Tool, Or an A Mod to the Old one for the Bug, that will work on a Vanagon ~
>
>
>> On 8 May , 2016, at 10:05 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
>>
>> Any time you are tryingbto remove a large nut - heck, even some smaller nut
>> or bolts - some extra precautions are in order. Dennis covered his pretty
>> well. For myself, if I can get at it, throw a rag over the work. You can
>> never tell when a piece of shrapnel will come flying off.
>>
>> As for large bolts or nuts such as the axle nut they really ought to be
>> covered. In industry such items can be huge an subject to enormous torque.
>> When I worked in the aviation industry, (I'm old enough now to feel like
>> the first mechanic to work on the Wright Brothers flying machine) we used
>> what was called a Sweeney Wrench to tighten and loosen the nut that held
>> four blade propellers on the shaft. Some of those went to 2400 foot lbs.
>> The Sweeny could deliver, as it was a geared, chain drive apparatus with
>> splines inside to hold onto the shaft while it turned that nut up to torque
>> - or loosened it. Sometimes I think we need one of those when it comes to
>> having to deal with the nut and stub axle on our Vanagons. There's no way
>> that nut won't turn with a Sweeny!!
>>
>> John
>>> On May 8, 2016 10:06, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Depending on where the jack stands were placed the weight behind them is
>>> already trying to lift the front off the ground. It is normal for a
>>> threaded fastener assembly to require much more torque to loosen then
>>> applied for tightening, that is part of how they work. Tension and
>>> friction. Rust and corrosion can make things worse. Normally, the brakes
>>> can be serviced without removing the hub. It only needs to be removed if
>>> servicing the wheel bearings or replacing the backing plate.
>>>
>>> Dennis
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
>>> Of Don Hanson
>>> Sent: Sunday, May 8, 2016 9:22 AM
>>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>>> Subject: Re: striking caution by dennis
>>>
>>> Incredibly, when I was once trying to remove the axle nut from my 84,
>>> after getting it all up on jackstands, etc.....
>>>
>>> ....I got a really long cheater bar and put it onto my 3/4" drive
>>> breaker bar, after locking the wheel with the Ebrake. I put my own full
>>> body weight (165lbs) on the end of the bar...nuthin... Asked two of my
>>> friends to get on that bar with me....We lifted the front of the vanagon
>>> off the ground, and still didn't get that nut to budge...Bouncing on that
>>> breaker bar with three guys standing on it....the front wheels just bounced
>>> up and down....finally cut it off
>>>
>>>> On Sun, May 8, 2016 at 6:12 AM, mike riley <mkriley1@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> You can.t have too many warnings about flying debris! I had to undergo
>>>> eye surgery to remove a piece of steel from my cornea acquired in a
>>>> industrial setting with safety glasses, gogeles, and a face shield on.
>>>> The best way is no impact at all. Take the cotter pins out and have a
>>>> socket and breaker bar. Put it on the passnger side twards the front
>>>> with the handle on the ground. Start the engine and slip the clutch in
>>>> first gear. It will come off. Alternatively cut the nut off it is
>>>> false economy to reuse it as the threads are most likely
>>>> distorted.Mike
>>>
