Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2015 20:42:02 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Engine teardown - 2.1L WBX
In-Reply-To: <CANEuo0jirw=x8YJkJdRNL559UKdvFUyNze71T8RAPm5tiZ1Hdg@mail.gmail.com>
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Unlike the air cooled engines the piston pins are slip, not press fits. The problem is either a carbon build up or a burr near the snap ring. There is a reamer that can take care of that. Otherwise a 3/8" (9/16" hex) nut and threaded rod can be used to pull the pin out. Be sure to support the piston so as not to put a side load on the connecting rod.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of kenneth wilford (Van-Again)
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2015 10:05 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Engine teardown - 2.1L WBX
Has he tried a slide hammer pilot bearing extraction tool? Works well.
Ken
On Thu, Jun 11, 2015 at 8:53 AM, John Rodgers <jrodgers113@gmail.com> wrote:
> Yes on the ports. This rebuilder has 42 years experience with VW
> engines, and usually doesn't miss a trick. But this one is being a
> pain because it was severely overheated. Probably headed for imminent
> total failure - broken crankshaft, rod through the block, something
> like that. Thanks to you and others for the head and valve info. Will get'ter done!
>
> John
> On Jun 11, 2015 1:29 AM, "SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )" <
> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
> > Did anyone notice the 'ports' in the non-flywheel end of the piston
> > barrel area of the block ?
> >
> > one is exposed when the water pump is removed..
> > the other is cover with a coolant pipe/flange.
> >
> > Use some extraction device through those holes.
> > Mandatory to heat the piston some .....
> > not 'tons' ..just some, with oxy-accetylene torch.
> >
> > 'Clever' of VW to make it so you have to use your extraction tool
> > for
> both
> > piston pins through that one hole..
> > ( subaru has a hole on each si, fore and aft, conveniently in their
> > opposed 4 engines )
> >
> > People have used threaded rod .
> > there are exanadable internal grabber tools .( like to grab and
> > extract a oil pressure relief piston say )
> >
> > A good machine shop that does whole engine rebuilds should have some
> > of those extractor tools.
> >
> > On 6/10/2015 12:10 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
> >
> > In an earlier post I told of someone running my engine hot. Result:
> > gotta have the engine rebuilt. Decided to go all the way with it -
> > all new everything. Pushrods were bent indicating stuck valves from over heating.
> > Both heads were cracked beyond any repair so all new AMC heads with
> > new everything are going back on.
> >
> > Right now removal of two piston pins is a problem. Any suggestions
> > on that. The rebuilder is very good, but this one has him up a
> > stump. I'm
> sure
> > he will eventually succeed but any suggestions might be of benefit
> > to
> speed
> > matters along.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--
Thanks,
Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com
