Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2015 12:10:06 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Rear axle torque specs? Rear Wheel bearings.
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Amazing how much banter this has generated. The rear wheel bearings are surprisingly long lived considering their size vs. load and the usual lack of maintenance. Usual life is wheel in excess of 150K. What is amazing is how normal service of even the brakes can cause these to be damaged. The usual cause of the bearings, flange hub, shaft, or spacer failure is insufficient torque of that big nut. Once any of it fails and there is any wear on the sleeve or flange hub the shaft is usually also toast and not replacing all these parts will just result in the mess going bad again. No need to measure the sleeve, damage will be evident. If there is a groove or step on either end it is garbage. Then look at the back of the flange hub. Same there. Also check the fit of the splines on the shaft. Any play or rocking? Shaft and hub garbage. Also look at where the nut sits on that hub. Wear from a loose connection will be evident.
Wheel bearing operation can be checked without taking it all a part. Bad bearings or the assembly will make noises under load. No noises! Jack up and turn by hand. You will know fi there is problem. If heat is the only concern go back to the brakes. Dragging brakes will heat the drum and some of that heat will go to the shaft and bearings. After you stop the drum will quickly cool due to the surface area and cast material. The hub and shaft will hold the heat for some time.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Dennis Jowell
Sent: Monday, June 1, 2015 6:48 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Rear axle torque specs?
Ken, thanks for the part number I will check with my local VW dealer and see I may have to postpone our trip to Newfoundland. Maybe the rear bearings are ok. I am bringing it back to the mechanic next Monday to take everything apart again. He said no charge for parts or labor and will replace the new bearings he put in last week plus seal.hope this goes to plan Dennis
Dennis Jowell
Scotch Hollow Farm
Newbury, Vermont
> On Jun 1, 2015, at 2:57 PM, kenneth wilford (Van-Again) <kenwilfy@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Dennis, here is the part number for the sleeve:
> 211501281E
> It appears to be NLA here in the USA. I can get some from Europe in about a week if you are interested. The last time you could buy them here they were $48 from VW. I can get new ones for $39 each. Let me know.
>
> Ken Wilford
> John 3:16
> www.vanagain.com
>
>> On Mon, Jun 1, 2015 at 2:09 PM, Dennis Jowell <dennisjowell@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Phil,
>> Great information. The nut is definitely hotter than the drum.
>> I have a call to the shop this morning. Voice mail only. Here we go again.
>> Thanks again for the information.
>> Dennis
>>
>> Dennis Jowell
>> Scotch Hollow Farm
>> Newbury, Vermont
>>
>>
>> > On Jun 1, 2015, at 1:44 PM, Phil Zimmerman <philzimm1@SHAW.CA> wrote:
>> >
>> > Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2015 07:04:01 -0400
>> > From: Dennis Jowell <dennisjowell@GMAIL.COM>
>> >
>> > Forgot to add that that the rear passenger side wheel bearings and seal have been just replaced by a new shop I'm trying to use. Wheel axle nut torqued to 360 ft lbs. I then drove the Westy back to my farm 60 miles away. Remove hub caps and felt axle nuts on both side of the Westy. The passenger side was exceptionally hot. I couldn't hold on to it. The drive side was only warm. Hence my be question of torque specs.
>> > -------------------
>> >
>> > Dennis,
>> >
>> > Just read you last update..
>> >
>> > Do-not back-off the rear axle nut without first diagnosing your problem further.
>> >
>> > The proper torque procedure of the rear axle nut is to first torque the nut to 360 ft lb.
>> > Continue to tighten the nut until the next slot in the 10-slot castle nut aligns with the hole in the stub-axle for the Cotter Pin.
>> > This means that the nut is often torqued to a far higher torque
>> > than the initial 360 ft lb. (this assembly can easily withstand this level of torque) The length of the spacer-sleeve is what keeps the outer bearing from preloaded too-much or not-enough under this level of torque..
>> > If the sleeve is worn short the outer bearing will not be pre-loaded enough and the assemble too loose and will self-destruct as Ken surmised.
>> > If the sleeve was somehow not installed by the shop… you would know it already from your 300 mile drive home from your new repair shop.
>> > The bearing would not be too hot.. it would probably be destroyed and the rear hub assembly really sloppy and make noises.
>> >
>> > As Ken and others suggest. When the shop re-assembled the rear
>> > brakes. Real easy to get the shoes too tight in the drum and then
>> > drag and generate a great amount of heat… See if after a short drive with little braking… spray a small amount of water on the outer part of the brake drum: does the water vaporize? Spray that axle nut and see if the water vaporizes more violently or less than the outer rim of the Drum. If the Drum appears hotter than the axle nut.. Its probably the brake shoes need re-setting. If the nut is hotter… probably the bearings need to be removed and checked..
>> >
>> > good hunting
>> >
>> > Phil z
>> > Off is rock off the West coast
>
>
>
> --
> Thanks,
> Ken Wilford
> John 3:16
> www.vanagain.com
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