Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2014 22:08:43 -1000
Reply-To: "SDF ( Scott Daniel Foss )" <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "SDF ( Scott Daniel Foss )" <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Organization: Cosmic Reminders
Subject: Re: Vanagon Head Leaking Around The Head Nut(S)
In-Reply-To: <BAY407-EAS1611EEAD4397DFC5B669A69A0510@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
I would agree with emphasis on making sure the nuts and stud threads are
working smoothly.
this kind of detail attention to workmanship pays off , for sure.
I lube the stud threads with a synthetic spray lube ..
I make sure the nut is not full of sealant ...
I just put a good amount of yellow stuff around the flat surface.
I torque 'em to 37 ft lbs.
'more' is not better in this situation.
it's really mickey mouse in a way ...you are asking the heads to seal
against the metal sealing rings..
a very old air-cooled VW design..
dating from the 40's even.
it's amazing it works as well as it does.
NO other manufacturer tries to get away with this system ..ever,
anywhere , at all.
be thankful it works at all.
I generally have fine luck with them..
I can't emphasize meticulous workmanship enough. .
everything has to be clean and smooth-turning.
and then some.
the studs do twist ..
it's nerve wracking.
that's why things being smooth-turning is so important.
re the comments about re-sealing one nut.
drain the coolant of course ~!
these things need all the help they can get ~ !
wasser-puker ...lol ~!
On 4/13/2014 3:46 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
> Nuts in critical applications are not re-usable. For our head nuts at minimum they need to have the threads chased or tapped to make sure they are not distorted and cleaned. Then for assembly, the threads on the stud need to be lubed and the sealant only goes on the flange. If the stud is twisting and springing back as you approach final torque you will not get a good result. The stud is weak or you still have excess friction on that thread.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of J Stewart
> Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2014 8:03 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Vanagon Head Leaking Around The Head Nut(S)
>
> Thanks, Mark. I think I threw away what was left in the tube of yellow stuff, would Right Stuff work as well? Thanks, Jeff Jeff Stewart ----- Original Message -----
>> I would just remove the suspect nut and put fresh yellow stuff on it
>> and torque it back into place. Make sure the inside of the nut is as
>> clean and dry as possible before you put it back.
>> If they are VW wbx heads then there is a common crack area that often
>> appears to be one of the upper nuts when it is really a crack very
>> close by to it.
>> Mark
>> J Stewart wrote:
>>> OK I've posted some of this story on Facebook, just got back from
>>> Everybus. Condensed version: replaced right side head gasket two
>>> weeks ago. Put about 150 miles on the van before leaving Friday for
>>> Everybus, no problems (well couple of minor ones). 170 miles into
>>> the trip Friday coolant light starts blinking. Pull over, let it
>>> cool, top it off and hit the road. 10 miles later blinking again. Do
>>> the same. Repeat 3 more times but get to Everybus. Every time I
>>> stopped, nothing dripping from the van, engine is dry. Folks are
>>> telling me I didn't burp it. I'm skeptical. Today coming home it was
>>> low about every 100 miles, light would come on, but now I'm seeing
>>> drips from the right side. It "APPEARS", very hard to tell, but it
>>> appears to be leaking around one of the upper cylinder head nuts
>>> (torqued to 40lbs and I used the yellow goop) With the AFM, air
>>> filter, hoses, etc. it is hard to see, but that is what it is
>>> looking like. Is it customary to retorque the heads after xxx miles?
>>> Long
>> ing for an inline 4, Suby, Zetec, just about anything else besides
>> this waterboxer!! Jeff
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Jeff Stewart
>>>
| 
