Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 00:17:45 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Tie Rod ends and Rear trailing arm bushings
In-Reply-To: <4FC4F188.3010705@bellsouth.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Most likely your problem is that the rack is not properly centered. Count
turns lock to lock, exactly 1/2 that is center. At center reposition the
steering wheel. If all is right the anti-theft lock should engage with the
steering wheel spoke somewhere between 10-4 to 11-5. You don't want the
wheel to lock straight ahead as that makes towing easier. Any way, after
that you should have enough engagement on both sides for the tie rods to
attach.
As for the rear bolts being stuck in the bushings you will have to cut the
bolts just inside the mounting points. The bushing tube is somewhat hard so
you will need a lot of good sawzall blades to accomplish this. A torch can
also be used but burning off that rubber makes a real mess.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
email99
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 11:56 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Tie Rod ends and Rear trailing arm bushings
It's time for some suspension maintenance.
First a question:
I recently replaced my steering rack (with tie rods) and tie rod ends and I
found, after alignment, the engagement of the tie rod into the tie rod ends
was not as deep as I would have liked. It seems the length of the female
threaded housing of the tie rod end is not as long as I remembered when I
have replaced the rod end in the past. Have the
replacement parts changed over the years? Are there brands that are
longer than others? Please note that I am not talking about the tapered
stud that attaches to the spindle arm.
Now a request for some advice:
Also, the bolts attaching the rear trailing arm bushings are frozen in the
bushings and even after considerable abuse, they refuse to budge.
Is there a portable hydraulic press that maybe a frame alignment shop might
have that could press these out? If not, I guess I will have to hack saw
the bolts and inner metal sleeve to remove the trailing arm and then drill
out the rubber bushing to remove the rest of the bushing.
Does anyone who has done this have any suggestions?
I'm seeking advice from anyone who has done this in the past.
Please pmail me if you like.
Thanks,
Ed
