Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2011 09:12:23 -0400
Reply-To: Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@MAC.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@MAC.COM>
Subject: Re: Brake Noises
In-Reply-To: <03f201cc20ec$ba008a30$6401a8c0@PROSPERITY>
Content-Type: text/plain; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Great post Scott, where is the bleeder screw that I have to open when replacing the front pads?
Thanks,
Robert
NY
88 Automatic
On Jun 2, 2011, at 2:17 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:
> The later style brake caliper starting in 86 is easy to change pads on.
> it's a single piston type that slides on guide pins.
> All you basically have to do is remove bolts in the guide pins ( a thin 17
> mm wrench is needed ) and lift the caliper off.
> remove old pads.
> push the piston back with a C clamp or giant pliers..
> it is better to open the bleed valve during this process, and attach a hose
> to it, rather than push the old fluid back up to the master cylinder.
>
> the pads should have 'disc brake quiet' sprayed on the back of them.
> the disc/rotor has to be fairly decent of course.
> at least check wheel bearing play while the caliper is off. Address that if
> necessary.
> and always ...
> always change the brake fluid to any brake you work on.
> at least in my world. Not changing brake fluid with new pads is just silly
> to me.
>
> oh..one more thing..
> I normally use PBR brand Deluxe pads. Used to be called Repco ...from
> austrualia.
> I have installed hundreds of Repco Deluxe pads with good results, Now called
> PBR.
> And ..
> I get better brake action out of PBR 'low metalic pads.'
> They don't eat up the rotors in my experience..
> but then my brake pads never wear out either.
> And they do give better stopping power ..for a low tech low cost minor
> improvement over standard pads.
>
> I also like to put a tiny, tiny bit of copper anti-seize compound on the
> edges of the pads where they slide .
> and ...guide pins ...the caliper has to slide smoothly on the guide pins.
> That's very important, imperative even.
>
> it's a good job to focus on details on. Anyone can just slam-dunk pads in
> front disc brakes..
> but do it carefully ..and the various minor details attended to, and it'll
> be just fine.
>
> one warning about doing 'pads only' .
> the real repair is pads and turn the rotors, or pads and new rotors.
> If you do put pads on good used rotors...
> and there is some problem shortly after....like noise, pedal pulsation etc..
> you must replace those pads even though they are brand new..
> and turn the rotors or replace them, and install new pads.
> Often 'pads only' can be a successful job though.
>
> scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "neil n" <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2011 10:34 PM
> Subject: Re: Brake Noises
>
>
> You're welcome.
>
> The older style brakes I show are different than yours. Figured the
> pics would shed some light though.
>
> Bentley is your friend. ;)
>
> Neil.
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 1, 2011 at 8:36 PM, Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@mac.com>
> wrote:
>> Hey Neil,
>> Thanks for the reply, I have an 88 I am not sure that ATE or Girling front
>> brakes.
>> Thanks for the tips!
>> I am heading out to the Mountainjam music festival at Hunter Mt. NY
>> tomorrow
>> and I will address the brakes when I get back.
>> Thanks again!
>> Rob
>> On Jun 1, 2011, at 2:04 PM, neil n wrote:
>>
>> If the drums aren't stuck, not hard to remove and inspect. (11mm
>> head bolts may be present on each drum)
>>
>> My first thought is shoe(s) down to metal rubbing on drum. OR....
>> broken spring dragging on drum.
>>
>> This stuff should be in the archives. Off the top of my head, Ken
>> Wilford's rear shoe/hardware replacement "how to" springs to mind.
>>
>> If all else ok, fronts should be plug and play. Archives for that too.
>> :)
>>
>> Here's my page on front calipers pads etc. but for the OLDER style
>> brakes. Should provide some insight:
>>
>> http://sites.google.com/site/tubaneil2/frontcaliperspads
>>
>>
>>
>> Neil.
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 1, 2011 at 10:29 AM, Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@mac.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hello Everyone,
>>
>> For last week I have been hearing this sound that sounds like a high pitch
>> metal rubbing once in a while. I think it's coming from the rear brake on
>> the passenger side.
>>
>> Once in a while I hear it, not all the time. Could it be the rear drum is
>> rubbing against the inner pad?
>>
>> How should I resolve this? I thought the rear brakes were self adjusting?
>>
>> Second question, is there any good step by step instructions with photos
>> or
>> a video of the process of replacing your front brake pads on non-syncro
>> van?
>> I have never done it before and want to do it right instead of spending
>> $75
>> dollars at a mechanics.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Robert
>>
>> NY
>>
>> 88 Wolfsburg Automatic
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"
>>
>> http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>>
>> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
>>
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"
>
> http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
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