Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 20:26:09 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: WAS:trip out west-NOW: Heater valve
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="utf-8"; reply-type=original
ya mahn,
you can't do beans really, with the cables and levers without removing the
insturment cluster ..
which is easy, and you could be able to do blindfolded by now .
it's one of the real beauties of a vanagon ..easy to work on dash.
on many cars ...it's just hellish to have your head up under there trying to
get at stuff.
Vanagon is super nice that way.
removing the instrument cluster 'should' be about as easy as say ..
checking fuses , if one works on ones own van.
there are some things to watch out for ..
the tabs where the 4 screws go break very easily, so be careful there.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Mcneely" <mcneely4@COX.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: WAS:trip out west-NOW: Heater valve
Thanks Stephen. I now know (and should have already, because Scott had said
it before) that one must remove the instrument cluster to reach the cable
end. I will either do that, or will take the thing to a shop for the whole
shootin' match, valve replacement and cable lubing both. DMc
---- Stephen Grisanti <bike2vcu@yahoo.com> wrote:
> "I can't for the life of me figure out how to be contortionist enough to
> get my hands and oil in there to do the lubing. "
>
> If you can somehow reach one end of the cable/housing, you can use a nifty
> tool that motorcycle shops sell for cable lubing. Usually anodized blue,
> it fits over the end of the housing (a C-shaped cylindrical thing, it
> slips on from the side) where the cable enters/exits and accepts a straw
> from a spray lube cannister and directs the flow into the annulus between
> the housing and the cable running through it. Costs maybe four bucks.
>
> Stephen
>
> --- On Sat, 8/21/10, Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@COX.NET> wrote:
>
> From: Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@COX.NET>
> Subject: Re: WAS:trip out west-NOW: Heater valve
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Date: Saturday, August 21, 2010, 2:09 PM
>
> Might help to pinch off the heater hoses with clamps during the switching
> process? I assume, since the heater blows very hot air, that coolant is
> flowing freely through it, and that it is full of coolant that will drain
> out if the valve is out for even a few minutes. But, if the hoses are
> clamped, should help to keep the coolant in the heater, and same for the
> hoses leading to and from the valve from the cooling system?
>
> And, I suppose that while I'm about this, I should, per Scott's
> recommendation, lube the cable. Trouble is, I can't really see the end of
> the cable and sheath to see where to put the lubricant, and if I could see
> it, I can't for the life of me figure out how to be contortionist enough
> to get my hands and oil in there to do the lubing. I don't have really big
> hands, but that's a really tight place up there, and lots of other stuff
> is there, too. I've tried from below via the lower cover, and I've tried
> from above by removing the ash tray. I can reach the levers and
> connections from either place, but just barely. But, right now, the cable
> runs smoothly.
>
> DMc
>
> ---- Alan Felder <dieseldoofus@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> > That sure seems right to me. If you are quick with the swich-out, you
> > may
> > not need to do much if any bleeding. Just add to your overflow and wait
> > a
> > few run/cool cycles.
> >
> > On Sat, Aug 21, 2010 at 12:16 PM, Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@cox.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Please remember that the primary heater on my 1991 Volkswagon Vanagon
> > > GL
> > > Campmobile won't shut off. That's quite a problem in 100 F plus heat,
> > > since
> > > shutting the air valves doesn't absolutely block heat from entering
> > > the
> > > cabin.
> > >
> > > So, finally got the heater valve cable traced from the lever to the
> > > valve.
> > > Cable works fine, doesn't bind, isn't crimped. Valve appears to turn
> > > from
> > > external view when the lever is shifted. I can turn the valve directly
> > > with
> > > my hand, and the lever shifts. Did this with a partner watching the
> > > lever,
> > > and the partner shifted the lever while I turned the valve while under
> > > the
> > > van. Seems to work both ways.
> > >
> > > So, if the heater won't shut off, the valve must be bad, right? Looks
> > > simple to replace, but I guess the more difficult process will then be
> > > refilling the coolant and getting the air purged from the system.
> > > Well,
> > > that's another story. Can anyone confirm that I am right about the
> > > valve?
> > > Seems pretty straightforward to me that that is the case, but you guys
> > > are
> > > experts, I'm not.
> > >
> > > David McNeely
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Alan Felder
> > Austin TX
> > 82 Diesel Westy
>
> --
> David McNeely
>
--
David McNeely
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