Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 16:57:52 -0700
Reply-To: Stephen Grisanti <bike2vcu@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stephen Grisanti <bike2vcu@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: WAS:trip out west-NOW: Heater valve
In-Reply-To: <20100821140952.DPI00.1529660.imail@eastrmwml33>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
"I can't for the life of me figure out how to be contortionist enough to get my hands and oil in there to do the lubing. "
If you can somehow reach one end of the cable/housing, you can use a nifty tool that motorcycle shops sell for cable lubing. Usually anodized blue, it fits over the end of the housing (a C-shaped cylindrical thing, it slips on from the side) where the cable enters/exits and accepts a straw from a spray lube cannister and directs the flow into the annulus between the housing and the cable running through it. Costs maybe four bucks.
Stephen
--- On Sat, 8/21/10, Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@COX.NET> wrote:
From: Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@COX.NET>
Subject: Re: WAS:trip out west-NOW: Heater valve
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Date: Saturday, August 21, 2010, 2:09 PM
Might help to pinch off the heater hoses with clamps during the switching process? I assume, since the heater blows very hot air, that coolant is flowing freely through it, and that it is full of coolant that will drain out if the valve is out for even a few minutes. But, if the hoses are clamped, should help to keep the coolant in the heater, and same for the hoses leading to and from the valve from the cooling system?
And, I suppose that while I'm about this, I should, per Scott's recommendation, lube the cable. Trouble is, I can't really see the end of the cable and sheath to see where to put the lubricant, and if I could see it, I can't for the life of me figure out how to be contortionist enough to get my hands and oil in there to do the lubing. I don't have really big hands, but that's a really tight place up there, and lots of other stuff is there, too. I've tried from below via the lower cover, and I've tried from above by removing the ash tray. I can reach the levers and connections from either place, but just barely. But, right now, the cable runs smoothly.
DMc
---- Alan Felder <dieseldoofus@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> That sure seems right to me. If you are quick with the swich-out, you may
> not need to do much if any bleeding. Just add to your overflow and wait a
> few run/cool cycles.
>
> On Sat, Aug 21, 2010 at 12:16 PM, Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@cox.net> wrote:
>
> > Please remember that the primary heater on my 1991 Volkswagon Vanagon GL
> > Campmobile won't shut off. That's quite a problem in 100 F plus heat, since
> > shutting the air valves doesn't absolutely block heat from entering the
> > cabin.
> >
> > So, finally got the heater valve cable traced from the lever to the valve.
> > Cable works fine, doesn't bind, isn't crimped. Valve appears to turn from
> > external view when the lever is shifted. I can turn the valve directly with
> > my hand, and the lever shifts. Did this with a partner watching the lever,
> > and the partner shifted the lever while I turned the valve while under the
> > van. Seems to work both ways.
> >
> > So, if the heater won't shut off, the valve must be bad, right? Looks
> > simple to replace, but I guess the more difficult process will then be
> > refilling the coolant and getting the air purged from the system. Well,
> > that's another story. Can anyone confirm that I am right about the valve?
> > Seems pretty straightforward to me that that is the case, but you guys are
> > experts, I'm not.
> >
> > David McNeely
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Alan Felder
> Austin TX
> 82 Diesel Westy
--
David McNeely
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