Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 16:06:16 -0500
Reply-To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: WAS:trip out west-NOW: Heater valve
In-Reply-To: <20100821164442.6SU48.1530698.imail@eastrmwml33>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Yes, most people do it that way I think but you will find it
frustrating. I've found it's quicker to do it the way I described, but
that's just me. You sure can do it in place like you were saying.
Jim
On Sat, Aug 21, 2010 at 3:44 PM, <mcneely4@cox.net> wrote:
> Jim, thanks again. My reason for putting a clamp on would be to avoid losing coolant when I pull the valve, not to delay replacing the valve.
>
> I remember now that Scott said that one has to pull the cluster. It looked to me, looking at the valve and hoses from below, that I could actually replace the valve without doing anything upstairs. Just clamp off the hoses, pull the valve out of the hose, disconnect it from the cable, connect a new valve to the cable and put it into the hoses. No can do that way?
>
> Maybe I will take this thing to the shop. May be more trouble than it's worth to try to do it myself. DMc
>
> ---- Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>> Dave,
>>
>> You could put a clamp on the hose for now and deal with it later.
>>
>> Or, you can fix it now and lose only a few ounces of coolant. I've
>> done it a number of times. No need to bleed if your system is in good
>> shape.
>>
>> Don't even try to work on the damn thing up in that hold it is in.
>> Loosen the cable clamp with a 7mm wrench (pull the cluster first and
>> note/mark the position of the cable relative to the clamp) and pull
>> the face and knobs off the cable slider assembly. Then drop the glove
>> box and pull the air distribution off to reveal the hoses and cable
>> going into the floor. Find the hose going from the valve up to the
>> heater and drop it off the heater outlet inside the glove box opening.
>>
>> Now go below and pull the whole thing down to your face level and
>> replace the valve, cable end and clip. You're done below. Go back in
>> the cabin and pull the new valve up by the cable and hose and
>> reconnect. Put the cluster back in, put the glove box back in and push
>> the air distributor cover back on and you won't even have to think
>> about it again for another eighteen to 24 months. they don't make
>> those valves like they used to ; )
>>
>> Jim
>>
>> On Sat, Aug 21, 2010 at 12:16 PM, <mcneely4@cox.net> wrote:
>> > Please remember that the primary heater on my 1991 Volkswagon Vanagon GL Campmobile won't shut off. That's quite a problem in 100 F plus heat, since shutting the air valves doesn't absolutely block heat from entering the cabin.
>> >
>> > So, finally got the heater valve cable traced from the lever to the valve. Cable works fine, doesn't bind, isn't crimped. Valve appears to turn from external view when the lever is shifted. I can turn the valve directly with my hand, and the lever shifts. Did this with a partner watching the lever, and the partner shifted the lever while I turned the valve while under the van. Seems to work both ways.
>> >
>> > So, if the heater won't shut off, the valve must be bad, right? Looks simple to replace, but I guess the more difficult process will then be refilling the coolant and getting the air purged from the system. Well, that's another story. Can anyone confirm that I am right about the valve? Seems pretty straightforward to me that that is the case, but you guys are experts, I'm not.
>> >
>> > David McNeely
>> >
>
> --
> David McNeely
>
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