Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 21:18:51 -0700
Reply-To: Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: corrosion study
In-Reply-To: <0b5701caeef5$3546c8b0$6401a8c0@PROSPERITY>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
I did not catch the original thread on this, but I know marine two part
paint.
Be careful with this stuff...it can be toxic. Many brands require
certification now...the painter must take a course to be allowed to apply
it, it is very bad for you if used carelessly. Many brands have multiple
additives to control how the finish applies...accelerators for cold,
inhibitors for hot, fish-eye eliminators, flex additives, etc etc.
Difficult to learn, but pretty easy to work with, if you are careful...
When we painted with it in my boatyard we always work a fresh air supply
respirator and full tyvek suits to keep it out of our pores. Rumor has it
that there were deaths involved in the early applications of one
brand..Awl___. A two part linear polyurethane marine paint that is really
stunning if applied properly and will outlast almost anything..
When applied onto metal it need a special primer that etches the metal as
it bonds. We used it on aluminum spars and also carbon fiber with good
results..
Don Hanson
On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 2:26 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans <
scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> hi ,
> lots of coffee, or beer for some, perhaps, on the sanding epoxy paint. .
>
> that wet on wet gets the very best bond I'm sure.
>
> about primers in general, probably not true for all primer paints, but I
> did
> read somewhere that they are porous ( more like single part paint , rather
> than two-part ) ..........I read somewhere that primer paint can be porous,
> and should have the top coat put on before two long.
>
> and the paint can sure stand immersion in sea water..no problem there, it's
> keeping the water from getting to the metal under the paint ..so to me,
> it's
> all about how well the paint is bonded to the surface it's applied to.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Janne Ruohomäki" <janne.ruohomaki@gmail.com>
> To: "Scott Daniel - Turbovans" <scottdaniel@turbovans.com>
> Cc: <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
> Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 11:05 PM
> Subject: Re: corrosion study
>
>
> On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 12:07 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans
>> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>>
>> I've used two part marine epoxy paint ...man, that stuff is like a coat
>>> of
>>> rubber steel practically.
>>> Particularily with a primer ...gonna be there forever.
>>>
>>
>> Ha! Nice to hear someone else uses this kind of paint. I decided to
>> use 2 component marine epoxy also. Primer actually. It is meant for
>> the parts of the boat that are under water. It is not an anti-fouling
>> paint. They are actually other kind of special paints and only have
>> use for van if its amphibious.
>>
>> If its supposed to survive continuous submersion in sea water, it
>> surely can handle the winter conditions here in Finland. The primer I
>> am using should alone form a non porous coating that does not let
>> moisture or oxygen through. On top of that I use 2 component marine
>> polyurethane paint. These paints might be a bit demanding in a way
>> that they really want to be painted wet on wet, at least between
>> primer and top coat.
>>
>> Oh.. and one surely wants to get good surface right from the start
>> with these: epoxy is HARD. Sanding takes a looooong time and loads of
>> coffee.
>>
>
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