Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 20:18:57 -0500
Reply-To: Tom Hargrave <thargrav@HIWAAY.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Tom Hargrave <thargrav@HIWAAY.NET>
Subject: Re: Best Practices for Engine Rebuild Break In Process
In-Reply-To: <73bad2170905051750p4355c997w61cc6f7c01b89a2c@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Dave,
Under normal driving conditions, you are 100% correct.
But engine break-in is a little different and waiting for the engine to warm
up before driving of fits right in with the other steps in the break-in
process.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
http://www.kegkits.com/JABF/
256-656-1924
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf Of
David Milo
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 7:50 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Best Practices for Engine Rebuild Break In Process
I do not agree with number 1 during the first 1000 miles of engine life.
Just like the VW owners manual said, drive away as soon as the engine is
running smoothly. The other side of that is take it easy until it is warmed
up fully. Waiting until it warms up fully until driving just wastes
heat/energy/time, and the engine will not warm up as quickly.
my 2 cents.
Dave
On Tue, May 5, 2009 at 6:27 PM, Robert Stewart
<robertmstewart@mac.com>wrote:
> Hey Everyone,
>
> My rebuilt engine is going back in the van this week. What are the best
> practices to follow when breaking it in?
>
> My rebuilt engine has rebuilt heads from Van-Cafe and Cofap pistons in it.
>
> I was told by one person to change the oil after the first 30 minutes of
> running the engine. Then after 500 miles change the oil and filter, then
> again at 1,000 before moving from Dino Oil to Synthetic. It was suggested
I
> use 10w/40 Dino Oil first before moving to Synthetic.
>
> I just and article from Go-Westy and want to know if people agree with
what
> they say or have different thoughts.
>
> http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=860
>
> During the first 1000 miles of engine life:
>
> 1) Allow coolant temperature to come up to normal running temperature
> before driving.
> 2) Avoid full throttle application.
> 3) Do not exceed an engine speed of 4,000 rpm.
> 4) Do not use cruise control or maintain a constant engine speed for more
> than 10 minutes at a time.
> 5) Maximize warm-up cycles; the more times the engine is brought up to
full
> operating temperature and allowed to cool fully, the better.
>
> During the first 10,000 miles:
>
> 1) Monitor oil consumption carefully; check oil at EVERY gasoline fill-up.
> Note: The distance between the two notches on the dipstick is NOT one
> quart. Adding a full quart when oil level is at the bottom notch WILL
result
> in over-filling, very high oil consumption, and possible engine damage.
> 2) Keep the oil level closer to the lower notch than the upper notch.
> 3) Use 20/50 non-synthetic oil (any brand). Do not switch to synthetic oil
> until oil consumption has stabilized.
>
> After 10,000 miles and for the life of the engine:
>
> 1) Never apply more than ½ throttle before coolant temperature is up to
> normal, which is about the middle of the gauge.
> 2) Contrary to popular belief, it is NOT good for the coolant temperature
> to stay at the low end of the gauge. If you notice your coolant
temperature
> is not coming up to normal it is cause for alarm—get it checked out.
> 3) Use only the top quality synthetic oil of 15/50-weight.
>
> About oil consumption:
> It is normal for an engine to consume oil. Following the guidelines above
> will have a direct effect on how much oil the engine will consume—forever.
> The factory specification from VW is that up to one quart per 1000 miles
is
> “normal.” The oil capacity of a water boxer is 5 quarts. These engines
have
> a “wet sump,” and as long as the oil pump pick-up does not starve for oil,
> oil pressure in the engine will be the same regardless of whether there is
> one quart of oil present or five; it makes no difference. In general, if
no
> oil has to be added between oil changes, that is what we consider to be
> “acceptable.” That equates to around ½ quart per 1000 miles. That means
that
> at 3500 miles, the engine will be no more than 2 quarts low.
>
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