Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 14:24:25 -0500
Reply-To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Bit o' stopped Rust
In-Reply-To: <6e95da690903311204l336e6e54i12b80c7899f7c3de@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
I've never done a through-the metal repair, but it could go just as I
described but on a larger scale. You will need an angle grinder
instead of a dremel, maybe, and you might need to spray instead of
brush paint if its a larger area.
But the simple components work the same. If the spot is very large,
you will want to epoxy a backing piece so that you are not simply
glopping bondo through the hole. It's just like patching a hole in a
wall at home, exactly, except that the wall is always going to be flat
and the car is never quite flat.
Anyway you have to glue something--a piece of aluminum soda can,
say--in the hole if it's bigger than say a dime.
You have to remove paint around the hole and get the metal bare and shiny.
You can use the plastic wiper that comes with some cans of body putty
or buy a pack of them. They're cheap.
They come the color they are Pink) for a reason. After you mix the
catalyst and the putty together, the color should be that of the
wiper. Then it's properly mixed.
You don't have long (but you don't need long) to simply wipe some
putty over the low spot. Don't go away. You have just a few minutes
while it is creamy before the few minutes you have to work with it
while cheesy. You need one of those surform tools. I use the curved
kind with no holder, but you can get a flat one with a holder if you
want. You grate it to the shape you want like you were shaping a bar
of soap or cheese. Work quickly and leave a little bit to sand down.
Do a careful job of sanding through several grits of paper, don't
worry about getting it too fine (220 is enough, I think) after it
hardens (ten or twenty more minutes after you grated it).
Then prime it with a spray can (OK) or go buy some real automotive
primer. Ask the paint store guy to thin it for a sprayer. Use those
preval sprayers you get at home depot if you don't want to get into
using a gun (you don't--yet). Then have them do the same for the
paint, mixed to match your car.
Prepare to be amazed!
On Tue, Mar 31, 2009 at 2:04 PM, Joy Hecht <jhecht@alum.mit.edu> wrote:
> Gee, this even sounds easy enough that I could do it!
>
> Will it work on seam rust behind the fridge that presumably goes all the way
> inside? Or is rust in that spot too late to at least deter with this
> treatment?
>
>
>
> Joy
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 31, 2009 at 12:19 AM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans <
> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
>> and sorry for the typo's !
>> Scott
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Rocket J Squirrel" <camping.elliott@GMAIL.COM>
>> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
>> Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 5:15 PM
>> Subject: Re: Bit o' Rust
>>
>>
>> Instructions so simple that even a simple squirrel can do it!
>>>
>>> Thanks, Scott!
>>>
>>> And Hector -- thanks also for the pointer to that kool kit!
>>>
>>> --
>>> Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
>>> 84 Westfalia: Mellow Yellow ("The Electrical Banana")
>>> 74 Utility Trailer. Ladybug Trailer, Inc., San Juan Capistrano
>>> Bend, OR
>>> KG6RCR
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 3/30/2009 4:58 PM Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:
>>>
>>> Rocket's kind of rust spot *perfect* for stopping now, and permanently,
>>>> and it's hyper easy to do too.
>>>> No kit needed.
>>>> 1. clean to bare metal by any means - pick at it with a dental pick,
>>>> scrub
>>>> it with a small metal brush, etc.
>>>>
>>>> 2. Spray 'rust stop' on the spot. The stuff that says 'converts rust to
>>>> primered metal." Or use brush-on 'rust conerter' liquid from the hardware
>>>> store.
>>>>
>>>> 3. let that cure - for the deluxe treatment, next............... treat
>>>> the
>>>> spot with self-etching primer paint. If it's too small a spot to spray
>>>> with a can, spary some of the paint into the spray can top, then use a
>>>> tiny
>>>> brush to paint the small spot of treated metal.
>>>>
>>>> 4. let that paint cure, then touch it up with the correct touch-up paint
>>>> in
>>>> a small jar, that you get at a automtive paint specialits store, and
>>>> using
>>>> the paint code that might still be on your van, or get the paint code
>>>> online.
>>>>
>>>> Treated like that, that spot won't even show, and will be rust-free for a
>>>> long, long, LONG time.
>>>> I do it all the time , it's fun.
>>>> Scott
>>>> www.turbovans.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> On Mon, Mar 30, 2009 at 2:20 PM, Rocket J Squirrel <
>>>>> camping.elliott@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Mellow Yellow was always a SoCal van, with no sign of rust, even under
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> floor and behind the reefer. We moved here to Bend, Oregon, which is
>>>>>> high
>>>>>> desert and pretty arid, too, so I'm not expecting Pacific Northwest or
>>>>>> East Coast (USA) grade rust, ever.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> That said, a couple days ago I spotted a ding above the sliding door
>>>>>> handle that looks like it wants attention. I could use a tip or two on
>>>>>> a
>>>>>> way to tidy this up and halt the rust. I don't have a paint booth or
>>>>>> sprayer. I do have chewing gum, though.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Please see
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://picasaweb.google.com/j.michael.elliott/Vanagon#5319046442995891378
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
>>>>>> 84 Westfalia: Mellow Yellow ("The Electrical Banana")
>>>>>> 74 Utility Trailer. Ladybug Trailer, Inc., San Juan Capistrano
>>>>>> Bend, OR
>>>>>> KG6RCR
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>
>
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