Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2009 16:48:57 -0800
Reply-To: aatransaxle <daryl@AATRANSAXLE.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: aatransaxle <daryl@AATRANSAXLE.COM>
Subject: Re: clutch linkage wear -photos
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reply-type=original
I just had my dash out and it seems to me that it wouldn't be much harder to
do it as Scott says..leave the dash in place and try it..If that doesn't
work for you..then pull it..Still a bugger to get to with dash out.
I can remove mine in < 30 min after doing it 5 times to put in my AC, but it
will likely take you an hour or 2.
Seems it wold be a good time to deal with the heater fan and core if you
have to go that far into it...
Daryl of AA Transaxle
(425) 788-4070
aatransaxle.com
86 Syncro Westy
Zetec in the trunk
----- Original Message -----
From: "RICHARD KOERNER" <rjkinpb@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: clutch linkage wear -photos
Thanks Scott and Mark for the advice.
Been searching the Archives carefully, and am leaning towards the "remove
the dash" approach as the least-risk.. Appears to be time-consuming, but not
overly difficult. Ben gives a good pictorial here:
http://www.benplace.com/dash.htm I'm OK with lots of little screws and
disconnections and so forth, and have the tools to accomplish. (For
instance, was able to remove the instrument cluster in about 15 minutes.)
But am worried that I will get in over my head if I try to tackle removal of
the hydraulic components. And am especially nervous of the adjustment of the
clutch master cylinder push rod...Scott described it as the "nastiest".
Yipes!!
I just had the clutch/brake hydraulics serviced, i.e. flushed/filled/bled.
So removing those components to be able to remove the clutch pedal is
something I want to avoid.
Another question: am I correct in assuming that IF I do remove the dash that
I will gain access to the clutch pedal and be able to disconnect it from the
link to the clutch master cylinder and then be able to remove the pedal?
Without having to disconnect hydraulic lines?
Mark's suggestion of the GoWesty rebuilt clutch pedal makes the most sense
for me; then I don't have to run around to welding shops & machine shops to
repair mine.
Last question....any idea what a competent mechanic would charge for the
complete repair? Gotta be $500 or more.
Rich
--- On Thu, 3/5/09, Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
wrote:
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: clutch linkage wear -photos
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Date: Thursday, March 5, 2009, 1:49 PM
for Richard........
yep.............remove master cylinder......
it's an awful job. No need to remove the whole dash.
it goes like this -
instrument cluster out.
remove brake master cylinder ( disconnect hose to clutch master cylinder
first )
remove those two support brackets that pass over the master cylinder. If
they've not been touched before two of the bolts near the steering column
and bottom of the dash are anti-theft pointy round headed things........need
to overpower those and get them out. Install regular hex head bolts going
back together.
Then you can unbolt the booster and pedal assembly as a unit...........pull
it up toward you..........
then remove the booster from the pedal assembly.
Someone in there you need to get the clutch master cylinder from the pedal
assembly unbolted..
finally, you can just wiggle the pedal assembly out the top - tight fit,
but it'll come out that way.
I have also read about people removing the headlight in front of this area,
cutting an access hole, and being able to get at the clevis and pin that way
.......but I don't see how you could repair a badly worn one that way.
Have fun.
the adjustment for the clutch master cylinder push rod........the single
nastiest adjustment in a vanagon.
You need a deep 15 mm socket............like 4 or 5 inches deep. I had to
make one. - to adjust it with everything in place. The adjustment is a
struggle with the pedal assembly in place.
I think you could pre-assemble the clutch master cylinder to the pedal
assembly out of the van, and adjust free play on the clutch pedal that way
first, then install the pedal assembly into the van, and bolt up the clutch
master cylinder, with correct free play adjustment , last step.
whew.....
it's not a fun job at all, I'll tell ya !
Scott
www.turbovans.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "mark drillock" <mdrillock@COX.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 1:05 PM
Subject: Re: clutch linkage wear -photos
> Hi Rich. It has been a while since I have done it and it was a pain. I
> don't remember all the details of removing it.
>
> Welding up the hole and drilling it again has been done. You can get a
> new pedal from VW or buy it used sometimes. GoWesty sells a rebuilt
> pedal on an exchange basis and they add a bushing.
>
>
http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=4365&category_id=75&category_parent_id=
>
> Mark
>
> RICHARD KOERNER wrote:
>> Mark,
>>
>>
>>
>> I've got the "clinking/clunking" of the clutch pedal (85
GL with
>> 170,000 miles). The pictures explain well what is going on; I'm
>> worried about failure and want to address. I tried looking up
>> underneath with a flashlight and mirror....can't see the pin area.
I
>> removed instrument cluster and tried looking down from above....still
>> can't see.
>>
>>
>>
>> This is starting to look like something beyond my skills. I reviewed
>> the Bentley and Haynes manuals. Seems you need to remove the
"pedal
>> assembly", both brake and clutch, and before you do that you need
to
>> remove clutch Master and brake Master. Is that correct?
>>
>>
>>
>> And, what about the fix? Yes, replacing the pin for sure, but what
>> about the pedal? Are these available? Or is this a
>> weld/grind/bore-a-new-hole job?
>>
>>
>>
>> Sounds like you've been there recently...hence your post.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rich
>>
>> 85 GL
>>
