Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 11:30:49 -0700
Reply-To: Jake Beaulieu <jake_beaulieu@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jake Beaulieu <jake_beaulieu@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: Question about temp II sensor and bad running
In-Reply-To: <71d9cdf90809111126o8d0bb87q50500016f7569785@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
"Have you checked your fuel pressure regulator? Will it run if you keep your
foot in it but it drowns at idle?
When the regulator fails it allows full pressure at the injectors at all
times. They see ~60 PSI when they want ~35PSI and so the engine drowns at
lower revs."
I most emphatically second this idea. Get a cheap pressure gauge, a length of fuel injection hose, and some hose clamps. Test your fuel pressure and get back to us.
--- On Thu, 9/11/08, Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
From: Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Question about temp II sensor and bad running
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Date: Thursday, September 11, 2008, 1:26 PM
Have you checked your fuel pressure regulator? Will it run if you keep your
foot in it but it drowns at idle?
When the regulator fails it allows full pressure at the injectors at all
times. They see ~60 PSI when they want ~35PSI and so the engine drowns at
lower revs.
I used a gauge to test mine but I think you can check it by pulling the
vacuum hose. If there's gas there, the diaphragm is toast.
Good Luck!
On Thu, Sep 11, 2008 at 11:15 AM, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Here's another clue: when the car runs rough enough for long enough,
> it starts running so rich that it spits unburnt gas out the exhaust.
> If you shut it off and start the car again, it runs smoothly and then
> gets rougher.
>
> Could this be the temp II or part of that circuit?
>
> Why is there a 30 second or so delay from startup to bad running? How
> could this be consistent? It roars to life like the new engine that it
> is. Then it starts running worse and worse until it quits.
>
> It's not the cool temp sensor. This usually
> > leads to poor warm up but good running when hot.
>
> Is this the temp 2 sensor?
>
>
> >
> > Also, I have had O2 sensors short out internally, melting wires . I
now
> have
> > the O2 fused.
> >
> > Aside from wires , connections, the AFM can do this. I was being
stranded
> at
> > bvarious places for several days until I reoplaced the bad AFM.
>
> Why the 30 second delay and then strong start?
>
> The gas is running fine, far as I can tell. The problem is rich
> running, not lean.
>
> ??
>
> Jim
> >
> > When a Digifant system stalls, or runs rough, spark quality should
first
> be
> > tested.
> > You should crank the motor with a spark plug out and look at the
spark.
> Is
> > it white/blue?
> > or is a orange?
> > Orange is a sign of weak spark-bad coil.
> > Coils do burn out over time.
> > The hall sender sully burns out all at once, but you can sometimes
here
> is
> > arcing when turning the key off and on.
> > Do you smell gas? You can brideg the fuel pump relay with a jumper
to
> hear
> > if the pmp is running smooth.
> >
> >
> > The ECU. yes, the Digifant and Digijet both burn out. I sell these as
> soon
> > as I list them on Ebay.
> >
> > It could also be a crudded up idle stabilizer. Of course, any
> replacements
> > should be one at a time, only after making sure everything is
adjusted
> > properly.
> >
> > Robert
> > 1982 Westfalia
> >
> > --- On Thu, 9/11/08, Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> >
> > From: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
> > Subject: Question about temp II sensor and bad running
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Date: Thursday, September 11, 2008, 10:18 AM
> >
> > I'm starting a new thread on this because I am desperate to get
the
> > van running... wife doesn't have a car without it right now.
> >
> > In the earlier threads I started on this subject, I had the car
> > stranded at walmart. Removed the distributor for examination and when
> > I went back this morning, it started right up... meaning that
> > something in the car cooled down and the start was a coincidence or
> > else fiddling with the distributor connection solved the no-start
> > problem.
> >
> > Then another problem appeared or else there was a related problem I
> > don't get. The car ran great for less than a minute and then
started
> > running horribly. I barely made it home two miles away with a spot or
> > two of running great, but mostly horribly.
> >
> > I have started it many times through the morning and afternoon. Same
> > thing always happens: starts great, runs strong, 30 seconds or a
> > minute later it's stumbling and then it stalls. I can do this
until
> > the engine gets warm or let it cool and try it, the same thing
> > happens.
> >
> > I removed the wires to the temp II sensor and jumpered the sensor
> > connections. No change. I removed the jumper. No change.
> >
> > Ken Lewis has written and says it may yet be the hall effect sensor
or
> > the ECU, but I don't understand how a bad connection or failed
sensor
> > could create such a predictable situation of starting and then
running
> > more and more poorly until a stall. Maybe it could, but I don't
get
> > how.
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Thanks for hanging in there with me,
> >
> > Jim
> >
> >
>
--
Jake
1984 Vanagon GL
1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
Crescent Beach, BC
www.crescentbeachguitar.com
http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27
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