Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2008 20:51:43 -0500
Reply-To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: 2.1 running again, thanks, list!
In-Reply-To: <7710BDA6D11E40ED958528672662FA52@ZoltanPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Zoltan, would you please send the link to your pictures again?
Thanks,
Jim
On Sun, Aug 17, 2008 at 8:14 PM, The Westy man <zolo@foxinternet.net> wrote:
> There are several reason why I like my method. One is the simplicity of
> letting it down on the floor or lifting it to the transmission. The other
> is, I don't have to lift the car up only one side a little and I pull the
> engine out on the side not toward the back, on a drip tray that I made holes
> into to be able to tie ropes there to pull the engine around. It is a
> little heavy but not too bad.
> So, I don't have the struggle with the fitting to the transmission and the
> lifting of the car and the moving around of the engine. And it is a tiny
> equipment, the drip tray is used anyway and it fits behind the cabinet.
> Zoltan
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "mdrillock" <mdrillock@COX.NET>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 5:00 PM
> Subject: Re: 2.1 running again, thanks, list!
>
>
>> For lifting the back of the van higher I make my own wooden stands out
>> of 16" lengths of 4x4 to put under the back tires.
>>
>> I nail 2x4 blocks on the top near each end of the 4x4. These act as
>> wheel chocks so the van can't roll off. Then I jack up each side in turn
>> with a floor jack under the lower control arm until the wooden stand can
>> slide in from the side under the tire and lower down onto the wood
>> stand. For even greater height I have some with 2x4 nailed on both
>> sides, using slightly longer pieces sideways on the bottom for more
>> stability. I often put a set under all 4 wheels and this is great,
>> especially for Syncro drive train work .
>>
>> When putting things like these under the wheels jacking up just the
>> wheel is the way to go. With a piece of wood on the floor jack for
>> protection you can learn to lift under the lower control arm, front or
>> rear, and slide the wood stand into place under the tire with a minimum
>> of jacking. If you jack on the body you must raise the whole van quite a
>> ways before the tire lifts high enough. No need to do this.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>> Jim Felder wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm talking about lifting the vanagon rear end enough to lower the
>>> motor--with a hoist hanging from a saw horse sitting over the back
>>> hatch--and lowering it to the floor. Sounds like we're all doing the
>>> same thing, just a bit differently. I have to get my motor from the
>>> garage hoist to the car on a furniture dolly, so I have just figured
>>> out how to lift the van high enough to accommodate the motor and the
>>> dolly. The plywood with broomsticks is a good idea. If I had not had
>>> to make a trip to a store for a bag of marbles, I was going to use
>>> marbles. They would be omnidirectional--not that it matters once the
>>> engine is off the ground.
>>>
>>> I did use a block and tackle so I could fore-and-aft the engine with
>>> one hand while I used the hoist for up-and-down.
>>>
>>> Jim
>>>
>>> Jim
>>>
>>> On Sun, Aug 17, 2008 at 5:56 PM, mdrillock <mdrillock@cox.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I agree, lifting from above has too many advantages to go back to floor
>>>> jacks. I built my first version to do it that way about 10 years ago and
>>>> I still use it.
>>>> I have 4 floor jacks and a tranny jack but for engine
>>>> removal/installation the hoist method is preferred.
>>>>
>>>> Another thing I use is a piece of plywood about 2' x 4'. I put 2 holes
>>>> near one short edge and put a rope handle into those holes. This is
>>>> what I lower the engine down onto. Then I pull the wood with engine out
>>>> from under the van with the rope handle. I put the engine back the same
>>>> way but I use some broom stick pieces under the plywood to help roll the
>>>> engine/plywood back into place. The end of the plywood with the rope
>>>> should be as far from the engine as practical to help with sliding the
>>>> wood. Lowering the engine onto any kind of cart requires the vehicle to
>>>> be raised higher than just a piece of plywood does.
>>>>
>>>> My device is more like a sawhorse with room below it for a come-a-long
>>>> type hoist. The added height is required for some Vanagon engines though
>>>> not waterboxers. My sawhorse is made of square steel tubing.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Mark
>>>>
>>>> The Westy man wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Amaizing how little recognition that simple device I made, to take out
>>>>> and
>>>>> istall the engine to make it a joy, received. And for me to read about
>>>>> double jacks and all kind of obvious struggles with platforms and what
>>>>> not,
>>>>> is really a puzzle why most don't realized the simplicity without
>>>>> lifting
>>>>> the car both sides.
>>>>> Well, we are not all the same, I guess. I went through my struggles
>>>>> myself
>>>>> too.
>>>>> Zoltan
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
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>> Date: 8/14/2008 6:03 PM
>>
>>
>
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