Date:         Sat, 4 Aug 2007 13:38:17 -0400
Reply-To:     Geza Polony <gezapolony@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Geza Polony <gezapolony@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Subject:      Re: Deep Cycle Batteries

John--dood--

Could you give us some more details on your relay set up? I'm still not sure
what's wrong with the stock relay in the aux battery compartment as long as
it's functioning as it's supposed to. Or is it a question of reliability?

This aux battery topic has been with us for some time. Here's a thorough
post from almost exactly 10 years ago....

http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?A2=ind9708&L=vanagon&P=R16592&D=0&H=0&O=T&T=1




On Fri, 3 Aug 2007 22:36:58 -0700, John Bange <jbange@GMAIL.COM> wrote:

>On 7/29/07, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Also, you want a truly reliable relay. Most important that it
>> disconects when expected. You want double break contacts like in those
>> solenoid type cans.  Not a small lighting relay.
>>
>>
>I can say from experience that a good solenoid type relay is a must, with
>special emphasis on the word "good". My initial installation of a Trojan
>24TMX battery under the rear seat was wired to the big battery lug on the
>starter with 2ga wire through a big 200A capacity monster of a solenoid
>relay. I had a smaller, regular 50A RV type solenoid relay that I was going
>to use, but my brother offered me that monster for free. Unfortunately, it
>was not of quality manufacture, having been aimed at the "boomin' stereo
>dood" market. My first trip with it I noticed a problem with the rear
>battery running down to under 12V after only a day, no matter what use it'd
>had. Then, on the return trip, I went under the seat to get something after
>driving for 3 hours, and found that the solenoid relay was HOT, as in burn
>your hand hot, and my brand new Trojan battery was down to 10 volts. I
>disconnected it and upon later investigation found that the armature inside
>was shorting to ground when the relay closed due to poor design of the
>interior insulation. The battery and the alternator were probably dumping
>dozens of amps through that thing to heat it up like that. As a result, I
>ended up having to get ANOTHER  $170 battery because the first one never
>came back from being overdrained. My current setup is through a real 3 stage
>charge controller, with a real RV relay as a crossowver for jump starting if
>my front battery dies.  Definitely watch out if you're looking at buying a
>"stereo dude" relay. Bad things can happen due to sloppy workmanship.
>
>--
>John Bange
>'90 Vanagon - "Geldsauger"