Date:         Sun, 29 Jul 2007 14:08:22 -0400
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
Comments:     RFC822 error: <W> MESSAGE-ID field duplicated. Last occurrence
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From:         Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Deep Cycle Batteries-Typo
In-Reply-To:  <f06240804c2d26c83ff69@[192.168.0.196]>
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I made a typo.
While sold as sealed, they are NOT truly sealed.

Dennis

-----Original Message-----
From: David Etter [mailto:detter@mail.auracom.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 12:24 PM
To: Dennis Haynes
Subject: Re: Deep Cycle Batteries

Dennis:
        Thank you Sir!
A good overview that really needs to be said more often. Most listers
tackle projects with a half baked idea and only a partial recall of
the archived material.
        Perhaps they will take your review and dig further, although
the material, taken at face value will stand them in good stead.
Again.. Thank you.

                                        David (dsl82westy)

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~~~~~~

>Of the battery choices out there, a conventional flooded cell will be the
>most tolerant of use and abuse and provide the longest life. Most of the
>12 volt deep cycle batteries or beefed up starting batteries and still
>have short lives of one or 2 seasons. The golf cart batteries are a lot
>more tolerant of heavy use.
>
>
>
>Of the common, reasonable price brands, Trojans are probably the best.
>Best plates and a lot of active material in the plates. Yes there are
>better such as Rolls Surrette but bring money.
>
>
>
>AGM and Gel batteries is still emerging technologies and the advertising
>is a lot of hype. While sold as sealed, they are truly sealed. All of
them
>have some type of pressure relief vent.  Temperature changes can cause
the
>vents to weep and once the electrolyte is lost it can not be replaced.
>Most cell failures are the result of dry out. Unless you truly have an
>application requiring a sealed battery, they are not worth the money.
>
>
>
>Any battery can boil, off gas from a failure, whatever. For an RV
>application, the batteries should be installed in some type of sealed and
>vented compartment, especially if you plan to sleep while the batteries
>are being charged. This is not always practical so consider a flammable
>gas detector. They will pick up hydrogen. Plastic battery boxes are
>available for most any sized battery. They can be placed under the seat
>and you can install drain and vent of desired. At least if a battery
boils
>out, the acid will be contained.
>
>
>
>For wiring and charging, the circuit needs to sized for both charging the
>battery and any load connected to it. This includes inverters. The GC-2
>will pull about 40 amps off the alternator during the bulk charge. Add
you
>other loads. Best results will also be a direct line from the alternator.
>#6 gauge. Also, you want a truly reliable relay. Most important that it
>disconects when expected. You want double break contacts like in those
>solenoid type cans.  Not a small lighting relay.
>
>
>
>Dennis