Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2007 19:01:04 -0500
Reply-To: Mike Collum <collum@VERIZON.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Mike Collum <collum@VERIZON.NET>
Subject: Re: Bleeding the clutch
In-Reply-To: <45DF7E97.4090508@verizon.net>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Chris,
Personally I use a Motive power bleeder, model 0100. It really makes
the job easy and certainly prevents introducing air into the system.
http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html
Others have made inexpensive power bleeders using common garden
sprayers. Here are some examples:
http://bworks.net/vw/bleeder/info.htm
http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
http://scirocco.dhs.org/cheapassron/CheapassPressureBleeder/index.html
Since you don't have a power bleeder and want to bleed the clutch right
away, you can do it the old fashioned way. With a Syncro, you can
probably reach the bleed screw from the engine compartment.
You'll need a 7 mm. box wrench, penetrating oil, some plastic tubing to
slip over the bleed screw and a small pop bottle. Soak the bleed screw,
scrape the rust aside, and put the box wrench on. Wiggle it all the way
on, then open the screw, maybe a 1/4 turn. Force the plastic tubing
over the bleed screw, (keep the wrench in place), and put the other end
deep into the pop bottle. You'll want to have some brake fluid (DOT 3
or DOT 4 (DOT 4 is better)) in the bottle so that air isn't sucked back
into the line. You might have to wire the pop bottle up to something.
Go up front and pump away slowly and smoothly.
This is a one person operation, BTW. Having the bleed screw only
slightly open also helps stop the system from sucking air back in, since
that makes it easier to pull in fresh fluid from the reservoir.
Keep the brake fluid in the reservoir between the min and max marks.
You'll get about 3/4 bottle (400cc) of brown fluid before it starts
clearing. It won't get crystal clear unless you push another bottle of
fluid through. Of course, tighten the bleed screw before removing the
tubing when you're through. Pressure purging certainly works better,
but this will do the job.
You want to completely purge the system of old fluid as it attracts
moisture and can rust out the lines. The recommended period is to
completely change the brake/clutch fluid every two years.
I hope this helps,
Mike
Christopher Gronski wrote:
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I just recently posted a question on how to bleed coolant, now I'd
>> also like to know the best way to bleed the clutch hydraulic system on
>> a 1986 2.1L syncro with rear locker.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>
