Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 13:53:40 -0500
Reply-To: Ben <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Ben <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA>
Subject: Re: My 2 cents on head leaks and rubber studs
In-Reply-To: <704880.23910.qm@web38911.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Gary, i think i was clear on my post (read bellow) as to which stuff to
use on the heads outer soft gasket, unless Busdepot as it's own gasket
kit with some "The Right Stuff" in it, don't use the included one!
Again, i agree on one thing, the wasser is easy to remove and put back
(1hour to 2 hours), most of the external stuff (FI, ALT... coolant line)
are very easy to work on, BUT, it stop there, on most modern inline 4
cylinders car it's an easy job to change an head gasket with the engine
still in the car, and it is not on a wasser, of course, up here, i have
to deal with very rusted EX to head bolts. Now, the "split case" system
is another story, on a Honda or on most VW car, you can change the main
bearing with the engine still in the car, not the case (hi hi) with a
split case, as for the heads VS sleeve, putting the old pistons/sleeve
back in is an art form! on any 4cyl engine, putting back the heads is a
joke... yes, the wasser is easy to remove, good thing because it's a
must when you need a lot of internal work... yea yea, some will tell me
that changing the pistons is more easy than on a 4 inline... well, 1
good point for the wasser..
"""The real drawback is that you tend to have a higher frequency of
engine repair than you really want and it detracts from your camping
time."""
Talking about me? if yes, you are so right... but for that i need a
van... and my van is now in 1000... pieces, well, at least, it's now
red... so red that i'm blinded by it! :-))))) after all, i should have
chosen a more... humble color, men, it's look like a Fire fighter toy
truck ha ha ha ha... Pics later tonight. it took me 3 days to paint
everything...oufff... but i took time to send between the 2th and 3th
coat....and for fun, i put a fourth coat..
Regards, Ben
ps.: i won't get into that coolant color thread... tired of it. i have
my own recipe:
Water, oil, windshield washer and a bit of WD40.... in case some of you
may tried that, it's a JOKE!
I simply use Prestone! now yellow those days
gary hradek wrote:
>On the gasket sealer
> If I buy the kit from busdepot can I use the sealer
>that is included or should I buy a better sealer?
> As for the engine design,
>poor it may be but it is less expensive to work on
>than most engines and requires an average skill level
>provide you are aware of the problems of installation.
>The real drawback is that you tend to have a higher
>frequency of engine repair than you really want and it
>detracts from your camping time.
> One last thing which can never be overstated
>AVOID THE GREEN STUFF, unless of course it is ST Pat's
>day and then just avoid pouring it into the coolant
>tank. Gary
>--- Benny boy <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA> wrote:
>
>
>
>>"""I think that the rubber seal is the real problem.
>>It is just the worst gasket system ever
>>designed.""""
>>
>>I FULLY agree, i have said here ""numerous time""
>>that this engine design
>>SU**. We all now it's a POOR evolution the the
>>Beetle engine!!!
>>
>>As for that "Stretching stud story", i don't agree
>>that they strech to a
>>point of NO return, some are... softer but can still
>>be use, if a stud as
>>been stretch to a point that even screwed all the
>>way the bolt doesn't touch
>>the head, put that engine in the garbage, an
>>over-stretch stud is a sign.
>>When i torque the heads (and we are now in 2007...
>>not in 1990/engine are
>>way older), i use judgement! i don't only look at
>>that gauge on the TW.
>>
>>The Bentley is somewhat wrong! instead of doing 2
>>rounds of "torque"
>>sequence, do 4! if not 5 of the X patern AND BEGIN
>>of the pushrods side!!!!,
>>start by hand and feel the bolt. Also, i just read
>>on another thread that
>>someone was using the Grey Permatex on the outside
>>HG, sorry bro but WRONG,
>>not in 2007, the gray is barely good for the valve
>>cover.... IT DOESN'T hold
>>against coolant, If someone is using other stuff
>>than "The Right Stuff", you
>>don't know what you are doing... Dirko is the
>>worse... especially for colder
>>weather....
>>
>>I don't know why those "Sealing" heads threads keep
>>comming back... it's olf
>>stuff.
>>
>>2 month ago i had to re-seal an 2.1L that was done
>>10 month before, it was
>>sealed with the 2 tube included in the Reinz gasket
>>kit, the owner was there
>>at the time of sealing... the mechanic never did a
>>wasser. The sealant had
>>become DRY, cooked and it was detach from the head
>>on 2 spot. The head were
>>pitted, i use a Dupont Aluminum cleaner in 2 parts,
>>let it soak for 1 night,
>>believe me, there is no dirt in those pitting spot
>>the next day, i don't put
>>JB there! i filled the pitting with the right suff,
>>put a final coat and
>>thats it... if you don't believe me, do a test
>>yourself, take an old head,
>>put the sealer on the pitting, drip the head in a
>>bucket of coolant, let is
>>soak for a month... and try to pull the sealant
>>out... you'l see. now, do
>>the same with some grey Permatex, it will be detch
>>from the heads in few
>>days... yea, i did the test 3 years ago so others
>>can benefit.
>>
>>Bahhh... you guys do what ever you want :-)
>>http://www.benplace.com/amc_head/amc9.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>
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>
>
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