Date:         Sun, 28 Jan 2007 19:04:57 -0800
Reply-To:     Jeff Michal <jeffmichal@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Jeff Michal <jeffmichal@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: A few questions from a newbie
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Several people have mentioned about the oil, and a few about the filter, and I'm due an oil change here in a bit so I'm on that.  I've decided to replace the fuel pump as well, but I really feel like I need tires before that.  I have what must be the worst passenger car tires on earth right now.  Its almost funny on the interstate.  I am totally sold on the Hanooks you have there and I will probably order them.

To that end I was checking out those steel road wheels you sell.  I was wondering what is the finish on them? I'd like to have them finished to white and I am wondering if I will need to get them blasted first.  I am also really wanting to know if those trick chrome hubcaps you sell will fit on them.  

Does anyone have a recommendation on what to use (paint? powdercoat? some sort of high impact enamel?) for a good solid white gloss finish on a set of steel wheels?

Thanks,

Jeff
90 GL

----- Original Message ----
From: The Bus Depot <vanagon@BUSDEPOT.COM>
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 11:13:31 PM
Subject: Re: A few questions from a newbie


> Firstly I am having the problem with the oil pressure light/buzzer
> > coming on randomly.  ...It normally seems to happen after I
> have spent a long time (>15 minutes) at highway speed (>3000 rpm) and
> I'm slowing down.

If you've replaced the senders, the next step is to check actual oil
pressure under those conditons.  My mechanic borrowed my van for a few days,
connecteed a temporary gauge, and drove it back and forth to work for a few
days, actually checking pressure under the identical circumstances. Also,
the type of oil and the filter can make a big difference.  Try a fresh
filter and 20W50 oil.  Be sure to use a correct Vanagon filter (the correct
Vanagon-specific Mahle/Mann/VW fllter ONLY).

> Second is a set of tires.  I bought it with some incorrect tires on it
>  and I really want to get the right ones before something drastic
>  happens.  I see everyone saying these Yokohama Y356 and
> Y370 tires are great and I am going to get a set of them, but I really
> want a set of white walls I think.

The Yoko's are pretty good in warm weather (although the tend to wear
quickly). But they are not all-season, so don't even think about using them
in any snow or ice at all. The Hankooks (which we sell) are all-season and
are useable in winter (although still not as good as a dedicated snow). I am
not aware of any currently-available whitewalls that meet Vanagon load
requirements. See http://busdepot.com/details/tires.jsp for more info on
tire selection and requirements.

> They check out the fuel tank and turns out it is
> rusted so I get another from busdepot (props to you Bus
> Depot guys for getting my tank out so fast, I got it the
>  very next day).

You're welcome. :-)

> I've been ok for the last 2 or 3 weeks, except I am still
> hearing a buzzing noise come from the fuel pump when I
> first start up.  Has anyone used that alternative model that
> busdepot sells for $100?

When a fuel pump is buzzing, it is most commonly a sign of fuel starvation.
The aftermarket tank (there is only one aftermarket tank available no matter
where purchased; the only other alternative is a genuine VW tank at many
times the price) would not cause a buzzing only when cold.  Some have
claimed (although I have not confirmed) that the baffling at the bottom of
the tank is not as good as on the German tank, which, if true, could
theoretically cause fuel starvation when cornering quickly if you're almost
out of gas anyway. But this would not explain buzzing only at startup,
especially if you're standing still and not almost out of gas. (After all,
it is a gravity-fed tank.)  If the noise is not continuous, but rather goes
away shortly after startup, I would wonder if it is related to cold-start
fuel pressure regulation. Although why this problem would have subsided for
a few weeks and then returned evades me.

>  Last question is about a new set of locks.  The lock cylendar on my
>  rear gate is damaged so it no longer takes a key to unlock it
> (anything flat can turn the lock).  I'd like to get a completely new
> set, ignition, doors, gas cap, and rear gate. Anyone know
> where to get this?

If your rear gate lock is the only problem, just buy a replacement and have
it rekeyed to match the others. A good locksmith (like Steve Sandlin, on
this list) can do that. No reason to replace everything else.

- Ron Salmon
  The Bus Depot, Inc.
  www.busdepot.com
  (215)  234-VWVW

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