Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2007 22:24:39 -0500
Reply-To: Greg Potts <greg@POTTSFAMILY.CA>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Greg Potts <greg@POTTSFAMILY.CA>
Subject: Re: A few questions from a newbie
In-Reply-To: <469114.44775.qm@web38804.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
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Hi Jeff,
On 26-Jan-07, at 5:37 PM, Jeff Michal wrote:
> Hello all. I just scored a sweet white 91 gl a few months ago and
> I have been driving it and loving it ever since. I met some folks
> from this list up in PA one day when I was running up there to see
> a friend of mine. Anyway, I have a few broken things and questions
> I am dealing with right now and I just wanted to toss them out
> there and see what everyone thinks.
>
> Firstly I am having the problem with the oil pressure light/buzzer
> coming on randomly. I've read alot about this problem and I have
> gone back to the guy I bought the van from to find out what he
> knew. He said he had replaced both high and low sensors and the
> sending unit, and since he is my mechanic I had him verify the
> wiring. I still get the buzzer, right at 2000 rpm when engine
> speed is dropping. It doesnt happen often, and when it does a
> touch on the gas pedal makes it stop straight away. It normally
> seems to happen after I have spent a long time (>15 minutes) at
> highway speed (>3000 rpm) and I'm slowing down. Since so much has
> been done I am unsure where to start with checking this out, anyone
> have experience here?
This is not random, it's a typical low-oil pressure situation. The
oil thins out as it gets hot, and at rpms the oil pump is not working
very hard, so the light comes on.
- It may be that you're running thin oil. (20W50 is recommended).
- It may be that you have a bad or wrong sender. IIRC the VDO sender
is triggered at 5PSI, where the stock VW sender triggers at 3.5PSI.
- It may be that the bottom end is tired, and the bearings are sloppy.
> Second is a set of tires. I bought it with some incorrect tires on
> it and I really want to get the right ones before something drastic
> happens. I see everyone saying these Yokohama Y356 and Y370 tires
> are great and I am going to get a set of them, but I really want a
> set of white walls I think. I know at one point Yoko was offering
> these in a white wall, but I am unable to locate them anywhere,
> wondering if anyone might have a line on a set of these or another
> appropriately rated whitewall. I've got the stock 14 inch steel
> road wheels and I'll either stick with them or get another
> identical set from busdepot.
www.roadhaus.com has the best collection of tire advice currently
available. Accept no substitutes.
> Third and much more serious is the problem I have mostly got in the
> bag. I was having some sputtering and dying problems so I get my
> mechanic to take a look and he finds some serious contamination
> (rust) in my fuel. They drain the tank and replace the fuel pump
> and filter. About a week later the symptoms start again so I go
> back over there. They check out the fuel tank and turns out it is
> rusted so I get another from busdepot (props to you BusDepot guys
> for getting my tank out so fast, I got it the very next day). The
> mechanic (he's a good VW mechanic from Germany) puts that tank in
> and another fuel filter. I've been ok for the last 2 or 3 weeks,
> except I am still hearing a buzzing noise come from the fuel pump
> when I first start up. I am looking more for someone that has
> experienced a rusted fuel tank and heard that fuel pump buzzing,
> but I am definately wondering if I should replace it again or just
> go with it? Has anyone used that alternative model that busdepot
> sells for $100? I'm sure its hard to make a judgement call here,
> but this fiasco has already cost me quite a bit and another fuel
> pump is just more money.
A minor whirring sound is normal. Any loud high-pitched noise is bad
news.
> Fourth I am wondering about window tint. Is it difficult to tint
> the sliding windows?
Yes. And depending on your location, it might not be legal.
> Last question is about a new set of locks. The lock cylendar on my
> rear gate is damaged so it no longer takes a key to unlock it
> (anything flat can turn the lock). I'd like to get a completely
> new set, ignition, doors, gas cap, and rear gate. Anyone know where
> to get this?
Steveslockshop.com specializes in VW locks and can rekey a rear hatch
lock to match your ignition, or supply replacement parts.
Happy Trails,
Greg Potts
1973/74/77/79 Westfakia "Bob The Tomato
www.pottsfamily.ca
