Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 22:20:17 -0600
Reply-To: Richard A Jones <jones@COLORADO.EDU>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Richard A Jones <jones@COLORADO.EDU>
Subject: Re: propane tank questions
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> So my question is ...can I still fill this tank? If I
> do, how do I go about checking it to make sure it is not leaking? What is
> the life span of one of these things, will anyone even fill a tank that old?
From 8/2 messages on the list:
> Bill:
>
> If you have the original AutoStop fill valve, you should
> replace it with an ordinary fill valve and a bleeder
> valve. Most propane guys do not know how to fill a tank
> with an AutoStop since one action is counter to normal.
>
> That is, with a normal setup, one opens the bleeder valve
> a little and start filling the tank. When liquid propane
> starts to squirt from the bleeder, the tank is full, one
> shuts off the filling, etc. But for the AutoStop to work,
> the valve that seems to be a bleeder valve (but isn't
> exactly) needs to be open ALL THE WAY, for the AutoStop
> to sense liquid propane and shut off. So most propane
> guys get it wrong. Plus after all these years, the AutoStop
> probably needs rebuilding, which you can't do generally.
>
> A new fill valve and bleeder valve should cost <$40-50. You
> can install them yourself or have an RV dealer do it. Then
> you are ready for any doofus to fill you tank. ;-)
>
> As for your situation now, a good RV dealer should quickly
> be able to figure it out. BUT, you need to show them the
> manual on the AutoStop, since they will make the wrong
> assumption on how to deal with it. If you keep the AutoStop,
> you should always make sure when filling that the propane
> guy understand how to "operate" the AutoStop.
>
> While you are at it, replace the shutoff valve and the
> regulator, since they are probably ready. Don't let anybody
> tell you to get a new tank. The tank is bomb-proof and
> does not have to be "re-certified", etc. Tell them it is
> an ASME tank and see the file I'm attaching. If you have to
> have anew regulator installed, make sure they check it to put out
> 11" water pressure; a good RV shop will normally do this. This
> might be the sign of a "good" RV shop....
>
> A general rule is that a full tank (2.5 gal of propane) will
> last two weeks of camping--fridge and cooking.
>
> Richard A Jones
> Boulder, Colorado
and
> Here is the message from Greg
> Potts about recertification of ASME tanks:
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
>> > 20 March 2006; Vanagon list
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > I found the following helpful and relevant info on the National
>> > Propane Gas Association Website:
>> > http://www.npga.org/files/public/Consumers_Questions.pdf)
>> >
>>>> >> > The 2001 edition of NFPA 58 (the LP-Gas Code) recognizes that
>>>> >> > horizontally
>>>> >> > oriented cylinders that were manufactured prior to October 1, 1998,
>>>> >> > are unable to
>>>> >> > be retrofitted with the OPD's. As a result of this fact, the Code
>>>> >> > now exempts these
>>>> >> > cylinders from having to be retrofit with OPD valves. Any such
>>>> >> > cylinder must have
>>>> >> > a label affixed to it to inform the user and the refiller that an
>>>> >> > OPD valve is not
>>>> >> > installed. (Note: This provision was not contained in the 1998
>>>> >> > edition of NFPA 58.)
>> >
>> > Maybe you should contact them for some pamphlets you can share with
>> > your friendly local propane vendor.
>> > http://www.npga.org
>> >
>> >
>> > Happy trails,
>> >
>> > Greg Potts
>> > Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Richard A Jones
Boulder, Colorado
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