Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 19:16:31 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject: Re: squeaking-upper control arm bushings
In-Reply-To: <vanagon%2005041515424202@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
The upper control arm bushings should be able to rotate, continuously.
They do not need to be tightened with the arms in a normal driving
position as do the lowers or the rears. If they can not rotate after the
bolt is tightened, you got defective ones that will fail. I have seen 3
different types of these bearings over the years. So far, I have the
best luck with the Meyle brand.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
Of Roger Sisler
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2005 3:34 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: squeaking
I guess the mileage is an issue here.You may want to plan on a upper
control arm bushing replacement campaign.I recently did this.Do the
upper
ball joint too. The archives will help greatly here.I can say that the
bushings are over priced and the price range varys greatly among
vendors.
Because you must buy 4 of said bushings, the price gets steep quickly. I
found that Vanagon Cafe had the best prices by far.$14 a hit.This is for
a
quality Meyers bushing.Made in Germany.I think the average price is
about
$25 each.I have seen higher for the identical bushing.Before you write
off
you current bushings, try this. Pre load adjustment. To do this, the van
must rest on the ground with full weight on the tires.Reach in over the
front tire and loosen the through bolt (3/4 inch) that goes through the
bushings. Now jump up and down on the front bumbper a few times
to "readjust things" Retighten the through bolt to specs.Spray silicone
liberally.If you still have squeeks, your bushings are
gonners-sorry.When
most people replace these bushings , they do this final tightening with
the
van "up on blocks".Seems natural that way, but this may accelerate
failure
of the bushings. They will be unloaded only after hitting a bbbig
pothole(a
deep one big enough for the devil to craw out of),and only for an
instant.
Then its back to being stressed.If you do the final tightening on blocks
and then drop the van, the bushings will be twisted.In the archives ,
you
may find accounts of bushings lasting about 400 miles.I think this is
due
to perload.One other point to make here. If you replace the bushings,and
want to tack weld a spot on the bushings like the Bently recomends,USE
ELECTRIC ARC WELDING.Gas welding will create too much heat for too long
a
time, and will melt the plastic in each bushing. This may also be a
factor
in prematue wear.Electric welding is instantanious anc creates minimum
heat.Press work on the bushings(in and out X 4) may cost more than the
bushings themselves.Fear not!There is no other way.
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