Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2005 13:05:38 -0600
Reply-To: Stan Wilder <wilden1-1@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stan Wilder <wilden1-1@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Subject: Re: 46mm socket for wheel bearing
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
The key words are "a truck repair shop".
I've only done the axle bearings 2 times on two different vanagons and never
found a "TRUCK" repair shop that didn't have the giant torque wrench and the
required socket.
If you've never done this torque process you'll find that you have to put
the van in gear with the emergency brakes on and stand on the brakes to keep
the van from just rolling once you near the required torque.
This is something you can never accomplish with a striker wrench.
Stan Wilder
Engine Ceramics
214-352-4931
www.engineceramics.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "jake beaulieu" <jbeaulie@ND.EDU>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: 46mm socket for wheel bearing
There is a good step by step write up for replacing the rear wheel bearings
on the "Been There Done That" website http://www.vanagonauts.com
You can also find this write up in the archives.
I have had good luck getting the rear axle nut off with the striker wrench,
the same EMPI product you referred to. Now finding a mechanic in town with
a torque wrench that goes to 360 ft*lbs has proven more difficult.
My 46mm socket is a 12 point. I had no problems stripping the nut, although
I am sure a 6 point is better if you can find it.
Good luck
Jake
82 air cooled Westy
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf Of
Stan Wilder
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 1:08 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: 46mm socket for wheel bearing
#1) You can drive the van to a truck repair shop and have them loosen the
nuts then drive home and do your work. After you install bearings and grease
drive back and get the nuts torqued.
#2) The bearings do not need to be pressed out.
#3) While you've got the housings off you might want to drill and thread
them for ZERK fittings.
#4) Use general purpose grease, Synthetic or Molybdenum grease will turn
that needle type bearing into a bushing.
#5) That beater for removing the nut can be bought from EMPI dealers but
lots of luck and I hope you don't break your arm or launch that thing into
orbit.
Stan Wilder
Engine Ceramics
214-352-4931
www.engineceramics.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Anonymous Digest" <jbrush@AROS.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 11:35 AM
Subject: 46mm socket for wheel bearing
> Gotta pester you folks if you don't mind. I don't own any heavy duty
> tools, especially 3/4 inch drive stuff, but I probably need to replace my
> rear wheel bearings myself, so I want to make sure and get the right tools
> the first time.
>
> Does the 46mm socket come in a 6 point? I am seeing a few places that have
> 12pts, but wonder if I ought to be searching for a 6pt instead?
>
> I have read the archives, and stared at the Bentley, and still cannot
> decide if I am going to need a press to get the bearings in and out.
> Anyone done this without having to take the hub to a shop and have the
> bearings replaced?
>
> Has anyone used the tool BusDepot sells to hammer the nut off. Sounds like
> it might be a good idea, although it doesn't provide a way to torque it
> back on correctly. I could probably just trash the nut with a sledge
> hammer and a chisel :-) but that still doesn't get the new one back on
> correctly.....
>
> I know its been covered in the archives, but not in a lot of detail, as
> far as I can find.
>
> As always, thanks a lot.
>
> John
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.6.2 - Release Date: 3/4/2005
>
>
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.6.2 - Release Date: 3/4/2005
