Date:         Fri, 17 Sep 2004 23:04:55 -0700
Reply-To:     Gerald Masar <azsun99@EARTHLINK.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Gerald Masar <azsun99@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject:      Rear Bearings   R&R
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin" <antelopewesty@ADELPHIA.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 7:06 PM
Subject: Rear Bearings R&R


> Hi Everyone,
> Here it is a step by step of the rear bearings for the archives.  You should
> still have a bentley and be familar with packing bearings and such. It's a
> big messy project and I wasted alot of time noodleing checking the archives
> calling my mechanic so I hope to save someone that leg work.  I did this on
> my 2wd Vanagon. Now would also be a great time to renew your CV  Joints and
> Rear Breaks.  Please feel free to email me your comment's and I'll keep them
> all so I can post this on a site a some point.
>
>
> R & R of Rear bearings for VW Vanagon
>
>
> Tools needed:
> 46MM Socket and driver    I like the sears ¾ inch drive (slide) for this
> 13mm socket
> 7/8 socket
> 17mm socket
> Cheater bar good 3ft would be great.
> Good size punch
> Big hammer like 2 ½ pound mini sledge works great
> Internal hog ring pliers
> 6mm Allen socket for CV bolts
> Jack / Jack stands
> Vise
> Flat head Screwdrivers
> Bleeder valve wrench  (sorry I forgot the size)
> Torque wrench
> Brake bleeder
> Lug wrench
> Mechanic's wire
> Bentley Manuel pages 42.2  42.4   42.5
> Optional:
> Seal puller
> Cv joint pin spreaders
>
> Supplies:
> Inner and outer bearings
> Inner and outer seals
> Bearing grease high temp, choose your flavor there's a lot but DO NOT USE
> THE CV JOINT GREASE
> 2 Rolls of paper towels
> Box of rubber gloves
> PB Blaster
> Brake Cleaner
> Brake fluid
> Lock tite  (blue) medium
> Old clothes they will be garbage at the end of the job
> Anti seize
> Simple Green or Degreaser
> Old toothbrush
> Shopping Baggies
> Zip lock type sandwich Baggies
> Optional
> CV boots and grease
> Bearing spacers
> Slotted Axel nuts  (A must if yours are rusty and worn)
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Work Sequence:
> 1.      Remove the cotter pin on the axle nut.
> (If you have alloys you may have to take the wheel off if you do then put it
> back on and put the bus back on the ground)
>        Spray the axle nut with the PB Blaster
>
> 2.      Loosen axle nut you will need a big cheater and chock the wheel.
> 3.      Chock front wheels fore and aft, put bus on jack stands and remove wheel.
> Put your lug nuts in a baggie.
> 4.      Remove 2 little Drum bolts then remove drum with hub (you may need to
> knock the drum with the hammer a little)
> 5.      On the back of Backing plate on top remove Metal brake line and tape up
> so it does not spill brake fluid.
> 6.      Below where the line was remove the 13mm bolt
> 7.      On the front of backing plate just below the hub remove the 2 lower bolts
> (17mm)
> 8.      On the backside of the backing plate you will see a metal rod that goes
> through the backing plate to the brake shoe holder.  Use your big hammer and
> punch and from the back knock it out away from the bus.  It takes a few good
> whacks to get it started.  Don't knock it all the way out just past the
> bearing box.
> 9.      Now the backing plate is loose remove it with ebrake cable attached and
> wire it to rear trailing arm.  (From under the bus you can pull the slack
> out of the cable so you can get it to the trailing arm and out of the way of
> the bearing box.
> 10.      Now clean the cv bolts on the transmission side with the tooth bush and
> degreaser.  Then remove the bolts and spacers don't loose them put them in a
> bag.  Rest the drive shaft on your extra jack stand so you don't hurt the cv
> joint also cover the exposed cv joint with a plastic shopping bag to keep it
> clean and so you don't get grease everywhere yetJ.
> 11.      You will see 4   7/8 inch bolts around the bearing box remove them (use
> a socket) and put them in another baggie
> 12.      Here's where a friend would help but I did it alone, as you pull off
> the bearing box the drive shaft will come with it and out of the trailing
> arm be careful of the cv boot that you don't rip it on the trailing arm box
> it's a little sharp. Don't worry if the stub axle separates from the bear
> box cause you are going to do that soon anyway.
> 13.     Now clean out your trailing arm at least where the cv joint sits simple
> green and a rag worked for me.  I then spray the entire inside with Krown
> oil just to be safe and protect against rust.
> 14.      Go to your workbench and lay the bearing box and driveshaft flat.  If
> you can vise the shaft and prop the box up on something it will be easier.
> Then remove the CV Bolts and cover up the exposed cv joint with another
> shopping bag.
> 15.      Now put your bearing box in the vise facing up.  See that little hole
> in the end of the stub axle?  Put your punch in there and gently tap out the
> stub axle you will have to move the bearing box so the stub axel can come
> all the way out.
> 16.      Here's where you are going to get messy J put on some rubber gloves.
> 17.      Remove the inner and outer seal with your seal puller or flat head
> screwdriver.
> 18.     With a paper towel try to clean out some of that grease so you can see
> what your up against do it to both top and bottom.
> 19.      Now with the bearing box in the vise face down you will see a retaining
> clip or Hog ring.  Put on your safety glasses! Take that out with your
> internal hog ring pliers. Careful mine shot across the room J don't loose it
> either cause you will need that later.
> 20.      Now you can see the 2 bearings and the spacer.  With the box still face
> down push the spacer to one side so you can get to the edge of the bearing
> on the other side.  Carefully knock that bearing out with your punch.  Don't
> scratch or chip the bearing housing or spacer. The bearing will most likely
> break but that's okay cause that's what the new one is for, just get it out
> of there without hurting anything.
> 21.      Now you should have one bearing and the spacer out, flip the box around
> and pop out the other bearing.  Now throw away your old bearings and seals
> you don't want to confuse your new parts with the old.
> 22.     See all that grease on the spacer and in the bearing box?  Clean it with
> paper towels and brake cleaner.  Make it spotless!!
> 23.     Some listies say always replace spacer.  I inspected mine after I
> cleaned it and it looked good, if it looks like a burnt bearing race (purple
> or blue tie died) replace it.  Mine looked almost new so I kept it.
> 24.      Okay clean off your workbench so it's spotless any dirt that goes in
> your new bearings will shorten their life span!!
>
> Reassembly time!!
>
>
> 1. Now pack your new bearings with grease.
> 2. Let's install the outer bearing first That's the one with the removable
> inner race. With your bearing box in the vise face up rest the bearing in
> place.  With your 46mm socket (or anyone that only touches the outer part of
> the bearing )LIGHTLY tap the bearing in it's new home and put the spacer in.
> (you can use a flat piece of metal to get the bearing started if the socket
> keeps slipping)
> 3.      Flip the box around and pack the center part of the bearing housing with
> grease evenly and more than was in there when you cleaned but not too much
> or you'll blow out the seals.  Install the spacer and make sure that it is
> lightly covered in grease inner and outer parts.
> 4.      Now install the inner bearing the same way you did the outer but make
> sure it goes in past the groove for the hog ring, and put some more grease
> on the outer edge of the bearing. (I forget if I used the 46mm socket or a
> different one just make sure it only touches the outer edge of the bearing)
> You can use a flat piece of steel to get it started.
> 5.      Put your safety goggles back on. Install the hog ring and put in some
> more grease again not too much or you'll blow the seal.
> 6.      Now you cleaned your stub axle right?  Lightly coat it in grease in
> slowly install it.  It's a PITA cause that removable inner race keeps trying
> to pop out.  Don't let it. You will need to use your hammer to GENTLY
> install the stub axle (by taping the bearing box down) while pushing down on
> the inner race with your punch (big end facing the race) with your hand not
> hammer you don't want to mess up your new bearing right?   If you never let
> the race pop out it will be easy but it took me a few tries to figure it
> out.  Make sure the stub axle is all the way in there will be some space
> between the stub axle and the bearing housing. DO NOT HAMMER ON THE INNER
> RACE OR YOU WILL BREAK THE BEARING!!!
> 7.      Put in a little bit more grease on the outer bearing and install the
> seal.
> 8.      Now is a great time to service your CV joints with new grease and boots
> see the vanagon BTDT site or Ben from Canada's site for great step by step
> with pics.
> 9.      Now clean your CV joint washers and reinforcement things and bolts if you
> 're not using new ones. Lots of brake cleaner, paper towels and an old
> toothbrush work great. Make sure your have enough washers for every bolt.
> 10.     Install the CV joint to the stub axle.  It's a balancing act but if your
> vise is tall enough is should hold it pretty good and be careful not to
> contort your CV joints while you do it.    First get them all tight then
> Torque the bolts to 33ft pounds
> 11.     Now your exposed CV joint is covered with a baggie right?  Get your
> friend again and have them help you install the bearing box again.  Don't
> let your drive shaft hang in the breeze support it with your extra jack
> stand. Make sure the part of the out side bearing housing with the 3 holes
> is facing down.  Use some locktite on the bolts to hold them in place and
> torque to 101ft pounds per Bentley 42.2
> 12.      Now take off your baggie on the CV joint and install the CV joint.
> Again torque bolts to 33 ft pounds.
> 13.      Check the torque on the bearing housing bolts again cause once the
> backing plate is back on it is not accessible.
> 14.     Install your backing plate top bolt that holds the wheel cylinder on is
> tightened to 14ft pounds (I used a little locktite) then in stall the brake
> line. Bottom 2 bolts are tightened to 47ft Pounds I used a little locktite
> on those as well.
> 15.     Use your punch and hammer to install the rod on the bottom of the shoe
> holder. It should be about flush with the brake shoe holder after you knock
> it in.
> 16.     Install drum with hub.
> 17.     Lightly coat stub axle with anti seize and tighten slotted nut to firm
> 18.     Tighten the 2 drum bolts to 7.4ft pounds.
> 19.     Bleed rear brake. See vanagon.com archives if you don't know how.
> 20.     Put on rear tire and put a thin coat of anti seizes on the lugs tighten
> them up then lower bus and properly tighten lugs.
> 21.     Now tighten you slotted axel nut to 360 ft pounds.  360 Divided by your
> weight = how far away to stand on your cheater. Example I weight 190 so I
> need to stand 18.2 inches from the center.  Proper torque is essential.  You
> may want to pay a place that works on big rigs to double check you torque
> should only cost $10 or 12 cold buds at the end of the day.
> 22.     Remove your wheel and install the Cotter pin in the Slotted nut. (NEVER
> DRIVE YOUR BUS WITH OUT THIS PIN OR YOUR WHEEL CAN FLY OFF)
> 23.     Put wheel back on and tighten you're your lugs to proper spec.
> 24.     Now with your bus jacked up again check the rear wheel and make sure
> there is almost no play if there is play you gotta go back and figure out
> what's wrong.
> 25.     Time for a Beer your done
>
>
> Hope you enjoyed,
> Kevin
> 87 Westy
> Burlington VT
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