Date:         Wed, 19 May 2004 10:26:28 -0500
Reply-To:     Larry Alofs <lalofs@RCN.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Larry Alofs <lalofs@RCN.COM>
Subject:      Re: Timing
Comments: To: Michael Brenner <brenner9@YOSEMITE.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

There isn't any reason for the timing to change drastically
enough to stall the engine as it warms up.  I suppose that you
could bypass the idle stabilizer and put the timing light on
it and watch it as it warms up.  I suspect that you would see
an erratic pattern from failure to fire rather than a gradual
shift in timing.
  The Hall unit and the temp sensors sound like the likely
culprits, like Ken said.  There could also be many other
things that become nonconductive at  higher temperature if
they are defective.  In electronics we sometimes use a cooling
spray to help find intermittant thermal problems.
  Good luck,
Larry A.


---- Original message ----
>Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 20:40:08 -0700
>From: Michael Brenner <brenner9@YOSEMITE.NET>
>Subject: Re: Timing
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>
>I think I may have a timing issue with my 84 Westy. When
reading the Bently
>manual, I'm a little confused as to what RPM you set the
timing at. From
>what I can  make out it appears to set the timing at 2500rmp?
Is this
>correct? (I have had to set early 911's at 6000rmp, which was
a lot of fun
>to stand behind with this screaming motor). Trying to
diagnose a wierd
>problem. The van fires up and runs for about 3 to 5 minutes,
and then
>gradually misses and stalls completely and will not start,
not even with
>ether. When it cranks over it has that sound and feel like
the timing is
>off, but never fires at all. I usually have to wait until
completely cold
>before it will restart. I have tested the sensors, the air
intake plate, the
>deacceleration switch and the full throttle enrichment
switch, and they test
>good. Tested the hall unit for voltage and flicker, and it
tested ok. The
>injectors have new seals and do not drip. New plugs, cap,
rotor and wires
>(the correct wires). It seems like the timing drifts away, if
that makes
>sense. As soon as I can adapt my american fuel pressure
tester to the german
>test port, I will see what the fuel pressure is doing.
Compression is ok,
>not great, 120-125 when the car is warm.
>
>Any suggestions would be greatl;y appreciated.
>Mike Brenner