Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 18:29:59 -0600
Reply-To: John Rodgers <jh_rodgers@BELLSOUTH.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Rodgers <jh_rodgers@BELLSOUTH.NET>
Subject: Re: Cylinder hone -conclusion?
In-Reply-To: <20040122225707.78165.qmail@web21004.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Scott, this really worrys me. You say
>>> My plan was to replace all the bearings - main, rod, crankshaft,
camshaft. <<<<
>>> New heads<<<
>>> New Oil pump, new water pump<<<<
Yet, you plan to re-use the old pistons and cylinder barrels?????
That makes no sense at all.
It's like you are rebuilding the body, but you are going to reuse the
old worn out heart!!!
You are doing a complete overhaul, but reusing the old parts - the very
parts - that will have the heaviest wear and tear. They will fail you
in short order and you will be hating yourself.
I know it may be a stretch, but if you have gone to all that trouble -
pulling the engine, tearing it down, miking everything, putting in all
new parts - by all means go the distance and finish the job proper - put
in those new ROUND barrels, pistons and rings ...........and enjoy your
van for the next 150,000 to 200,000 miles with no worries. It is no fun
having to go through what you are going through very often.
To use old cylinders with new rings is to put round rings into oval
barrels, and thats lilke putting square pegs in round holes. Trouble!!!
Maybe not right away. But sooner rather than later. I can promise you.
It is difficult enough to get a WBX to rebuilt and to operate without
failures using all new/good parts, but to use old parts that are not
true ......uf-ta!!! Trouble, trouble.
But if you are bound and determined to put new rings in old cylinders
---- by all means, hone the to have new cross hatch or you will have
trouble seating the rings. And use a straight 30 Wt breaking oil.
When I instialled my newly rebuilt engine - with new cylinders and
barrels - I pulled the coil wire, cranked it until I got oil pressure,
then reconnected the coil and started the engine. I let it run on high
idle for an hour - rpm - then shut down and changed the oil and filter.
With a new filter and new 30 wt oil, I drove it 500 miles not exceeding
50 miles per hour. The way I did it was to make 5 trips of 100 miles
each non-stop. That way the temperature was maintained constant over a
period and pressures on the engine were fairly constant. There was no
stopping and starting. At 500 miles I changed the oil and filter, then
drove 1000 miles never exceeding 50 mph, and then changed the filter and
oil. I put in 20W50 at that point and have driven regular ever since.
The one thing I would do now that I didn't do back then, is that at the
1500 mile mark, when I changed from straight 30 wt, I would go straight
to a synthetic oil. My choice - which I am now running with great
success - is Mobil One 15W50. Though it is more expensive, you won't
regret it. My engine definitely runs cooler, and the oil consumption
(WBX'ers always us a little oil) is extremely low.
Best of luck to you,
John Rodgers
88 GL Driver
>
>
