Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 09:29:30 -0600
Reply-To: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Subject: Re: Engine Overhaul Questions
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I sent you a Pmail with my replies in big red letters but I'd suggest
that you get a copy of Tom Wilson's book "How to rebuild your Volkswagon
Air Cooled Engine".
Well worth the $18.00 and you'll refer to it ever after on engine
questions.
If you've never rebuilt an Air Cooled before ............... slow down!
Read the book, slow down, Check your work, Slow down, recheck your work.
I know this sounds childish but I've installed pistons backwards, found
loose Circlips in my oil pan, Pinched end play shims, bound fans against
shrouds by leaving out the spacer .............. it is a learning
process.
You've got my phone number, call if you need to.
Also .......... Notch your rods and use the looser fit described in the
tech bulletin at http://www.dolphinsci.com/techbull.html
Stan Wilder
On Tue, 21 Jan 2003 18:53:37 -0800 John Tullier <elefntkpr@YAHOO.COM>
writes:
> 1980 VW Vanagon L
> 2.0L Air-cooled 4 CYL (Fuel Injected)
>
> Questions:
>
> 1. Had the crankshaft turned at machine shop through a
> mechanic. Machine shop closes unexpectedly, barely
> get crankshaft back. Realize later, of course, that I
> am missing all the gears and spacers, having been
> pulled to turn the crank. Bought replacements,
> including an "oil thrower" which I honestly don't
> remember being there before. After installing
> Crankshaft gear, spacer, distributor drive gear,
> circlip, and #4 crankshaft bearing...the diagram in my
> book shows an oil thrower. However, during the
> reassembly portion of the book, the oil thrower is
> never mentioned. I am starting to think this might
> have only applied to the earlier 1.6L engine and not
> the 2.0L. In the diagram, the oil thrower appears to
> fit right up against the #4 bearing. The shaft on the
> crankshaft also appears to have the same diameter
> throughout. My crankshaft is tapered, and the (OD) of
> the crankshaft is larger than the (ID) of the oil
> thrower. Any idea if there was even an oil thrower on
> 1980 2.0L engines? If so, is it held in place by the
> crankshaft seal?...cause that's the only way it would
> happen on my crankshaft.
>
> 2. How dreadfully important is it that the hydraulic
> tappets be reinstalled in the same place from which
> they were removed?...cause if it's important, looks
> like I'll be buying new ones. heheh
>
> 3. What are the pros and cons concerning push-rod
> tubes? There are different types so I've noticed.
> Self adjustable and different types of metal. I want
> the ones that don't leak or fly off while driving down
> the road.
>
> 4. And lastly, I know this is going to sound like a
> stupid question, but are there replaceable bearings in
> the connecting rods for the pistons? I brought the
> connecting rods and pistons to the same mechanic in
> tact, and didn't take them apart so I don't know. I
> already purchased replacement cylinders and pistons as
> a kit. I am hoping to be able to hunt down my
> connecting rods, but considering the "butt job" I've
> received from this guy so far, I'm not counting on it.
> If I have to replace the connecting rods, do I need
> bearings, or are the bearings actually part of the
> rods?
>
> Thanks allot folks. Hopefully, if nothing else
> dramatic comes along, I should be installing the
> engine in a few weeks. Lord I hope so anyways.
>
> John Tullier
>
>
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