Date:         Wed, 21 Aug 2002 09:06:48 -0700
Reply-To:     Doktor Tim <doktortim@ROCKISLAND.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Doktor Tim <doktortim@ROCKISLAND.COM>
Subject:      Re: Coolant BLeeding/Thermostat/Fan Switch
Comments: To: dfitch@MASSINSIGHT.COM
In-Reply-To:  <007d01c24925$5e375f60$4b62f4cf@silly>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

At 08:13 AM 08/21/2002, you wrote:

>Hey y'all.  Recently did some work on the metal coolant lines on my Vanagon
>after an overheating incident.  I lost alot of fluid and assume I have taken
>on alot of air.
>To bleed my system:
>So, if I keep doing this, am I on the right track to getting all that air
>out?  If there is a bleeder valve on the radiator up front on the bottom, I
>sure as hec cannot find it.

There is a bleeder on the radiator. As you face the radiator, it is in the
top at the left, 13mm hex bolt. You must remove the front grill to access
it. Bentley gives the proper bleeding procedure. All your problems have to
do with an air lock at the radiator. The water won't flow until you bleed
the radiator.

My refinement of bleed procedure is thus: Raise the rear of the vehicle
until the pressure tank is above the radiator bleeder. Fill with premixed
non-phosphate e. glycol until it runs from the radiator bleeder. Replace
the bleed bolt. Fill the pressure tank full. Start it up. Run at 2000 rpm
while topping up the pressure tank. Open the radiator bleeder to purge
remaining air. Refill the pressure tank. Put on the pressure cap. Now you
can lower the rear. Run the motor at 2000 rpm until you can feel warm fluid
coming into the radiator. Now the thermo is open. Open the rad bleeder
again and purge a bit more air, then tighten it. Let the motor run until
the fans cycle on and off 2 times. Then do one last bleed at the radiator
and get just a very little final air. Now, while the system is under
pressure, carefully loosed the pressure cap and the last of the air in
there will purge. Now fill the reservoir behind the license plate. Let the
system cool, then top up the reservoir again. Run it again until it is
fully warm and pressurized. Check for leaks or drips. Do verify that
reservoir level after several warm up/cool down cycles. If it is stable,
then verify it at every fuel fill, along with the oil level, until you have
verified the rate of needed addition of coolant. A quart per month or so is
not to worry. Any more and you must find the leak developing.

It takes me near 2 hours to do a proper drain, rinse, refill and bleed for
the Wasserboxers. Tip: when you remove the lower covers on the heads to
access the drain plugs, cut a slot into the tabs that mount on the exhaust
port studs, then in future you don't have to remove the bolts or nuts, just
back them off a turn or two to drop the covers. Saves a good bit of time
for this service next time.