Date:         Mon, 13 May 2002 20:21:10 -0500
Reply-To:     Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
Subject:      Re: Message for Stan- Dropping Aircooled Engine
Comments: To: METhompson@GOLDER.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

engine to be pulled back with all  tinware in place?
-------------------
It will normally remove but remove the alternator, dipstick and tube.
------------------
Your engine sounds great ............. run a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil
in your crankcase (don't overfill) for about 300 miles with your existing
oil. Run 8 oz of the Marvel Mystery oil in your fuel tank while you're
running the crankcase oil.
------------------Next
Change your oil, filter and clean your strainer........... run the Van
hard at 65/70 mph for about 30 miles and then take it in for inspection.
----------------- Why you pulling that engine it sounds better than 98%
of the Air Cooled I've ever heard of ?.

Stan Wilder

On Mon, 13 May 2002 15:13:40 -0600 "Thompson, Michael"
<METhompson@GOLDER.COM> writes:
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Thompson, Michael
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 2:56 PM
> To: 'Stan Wilder'
> Subject: RE: Dropping Aircooled Engine
>
> Thanks again Stan.
> Is it necessary to remove rear-most tinware first, or does lowering
> the rear
> of the engine 5" using said bolts allow engine to be pulled back
> with all
> tinware in place?  Any top tips for installing to make life easier?
>
> By the way, I have just had a compression test, leak-down test and
> oil
> pressure test carried out at a VW specialist.  Results are
> confusing, as
> follows:
> Compression (psi)
> #1      120
> #2      125
> #3      120
> #4      130
> Leak-down
> #1      70%
> #2      44%
> #3      64%
> #4      74%
> Oil pressure (psi)
> 22 at hot idle
>
> The results for the leak-down are what PASSES the cylinder (i.e.
> the
> opposite of the compression test). The garage says that it is fine
> up to
> about 80-85% passing before worrying too much. The oil pressure
> looks fine.
>
>
> The VW 'specialist' cannot explain the leak-down results vs the
> compression.
> They admit that there is a lot of blow-by for such compression
> results.
> They have suggested removing engine, replacing all oil seals/gaskets
> and
> putting new rings in and de-glazing the cylinders.  They think it
> is
> unlikely that new pistons/cylinders will be needed with these
> results.
> I am pretty confused and am getting differing advice here.  I have
> re-checked the oil leak and am pretty sure it is coming mostly from
> the
> cylinder head/cylinder base area.  It just seems to drip onto the
> push-rod
> tubes from above on both sides, although the right side is worst.
> Could
> serious over-revving of the engine cause the gaskets here to blow (I
> recall
> the previous owner shifting into 1st from 4th and having to have the
> clutch
> replaced as a result.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stan Wilder [mailto:wilden1@juno.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 2:15 PM
> To: METhompson@GOLDER.COM
> Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Dropping Aircooled Engine
>
> #1) Get two bolts 5/16 x about 6" all threaded., remove the four
> mustache
> crossbar bolts and use one of these on each side to drop the rear of
> your
> engine 5". Makes it a lot easier to get to other hardware.
> #2) Remove Alternator, Oil Dip Stick, and all electrical that will
> tie
> the engine to the chasis.
> #3) Loosen heater flapper valves and push them out of the way.
> #4) Put a jack under the engine, drop the starter and remove the
> other
> three engine/tranny bolts (three bolts in flex plate also if you got
> an
> auto)
> #5) separate the engine and tranny and let the tranny just hang.
> #6) Lower the floor jack and just push the engine off onto the
> ground.
> (cardboard pad helps) a skate board is even better.
> #7) Use the jack to jack under one of the rear wheels and drag the
> engine
> out from under the van.
> For me that is a 30 minute job after doing it ten times.
> First time ......... be careful that all fuel lines, electrical
> throttle
> cable ect are not hanging up.
>
> Stan Wilder
> 83 Air Cooled Westfalia
>
>
> On Mon, 13 May 2002 11:03:50 -0600 "Thompson, Michael"
> <METhompson@GOLDER.COM> writes:
> > Dear List
> > I am planning on dropping the engine out of my 81' Westy and was
> > wondering
> > of the best equipment to use.  Trolley jack, engine hoist (from
> > above,
> > inside rear hatch) or other? Any advice appreciated.  I have
> > previously
> > dropped a '71 Beetle engine using a trolley jack - the Type IV in
> > the
> > vanagon looks easier as it is not as tall with the fan housing,
> > just
> > heavier.
> > Best wishes
> > Michael
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dana Morphew [mailto:kadm@PUGETSOUND.NET]
> > Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 8:32 AM
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: 2.0 l. Injectors, Rack and FPR
> >
> > For those of you that want to go with the I4 injectors, rack and
> > FPR
> > with their TICCO conversion:
> >
> >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1827985499
> >
> > -Dana-
> >
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
>

________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.