Date:         Tue, 27 Nov 2001 20:40:52 -0800
Reply-To:     PSavage <psavage@SABER.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         PSavage <psavage@SABER.NET>
Subject:      South of the Border - Yes!
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Saludos Vanagonites,
In a week I depart for points south: mainland Mexico (Guatemala?)
Tomorrow, my '85 Westy goes in for a last minute check up..........

Like a foreign corresopondent in a war zone, those setting off on long
adventures in vintage Westys are susperstitious lest their vehicles be
diagnosed, last minute, with a *serious problem.

This makes my third round trip to mainland Mexico in this particular Westy.
Since the seventies, I've been traveling throughout much of Latin America,
sometimes by Westy, othertimes by plane, train, bus, riverboat & even
horseback.   I'm flexible.

My first Westy trip of length was in the mid seventies, when I bought a '69
in LA, threw my sleeping bag, snorkle gear, propane stove, passport, & snake
bite kit in the back & three days later began a year-long adventure thru
Mexico & Guatemala.

Mexico is a huge geographically & culturally diverse land.  After all the
years I've explored it's mysteries, there is still much I have not seen &
experienced.  The possibilities are endless.  Most times, I spend a month or
so crawling south along Mexico's gorgeous Pacific coast, camping in fishing
villages as I go.  Later, I head inland, into the highlands, where I wander,
often aimlessly--following the road less travled--thru colonial cities,
indigenous villages, mountain jungles, & stupendous Mayan & Aztec ruin
sites.  (Many don't know that Mexico's pyramids are larger & more grand than
those of Egypt.)

Years ago, while camped outside the incredibly mystic Mayan city of
Palenque, I met a small team of archaeologist at work there, unearthing what
turned out to be the tomb of the greatest ruler of Palenque.  I was
permitted, along with my hitch hiking traveling companion, to spend two
nights, high  in the stone tower of the Temple of the Inscriptions.

Last year, in part,  I traveled thru the Sierra Gorda Biosphere, three days
drive from civilizationon--over a two lane, mountainous highway, where only
an occassional gravel truck passed--to the hidden & remote village of
Xilita--high altitude jungle filled with orchids, vines as thick as a man's
arm, & giant snakes that preyed on the villagers dogs.  Here is found the 80
acre home of the late Sir Edward James, (bastard son of King Endward)
surrealist poet, patron of the arts, & sculptor.  His "sculpture," covers 80
acres of jungle & requires several days of climbing & trekking to
appreciate.  It is known as "Las Posas."

While visiting Xilita, I met a famous Chicana playright from Texas,
traveling with her lover & set designer/partner.  Local children showed us
the way to a gigantic cave where thousands of green parrots came to roost
every evening.  Later, we met the family of the late Sir Edward James, who
allowed us to take up residence for three days in the jungle cottage where
Sir Edward once lived & worked.  His poems were written in his own hand into
the plaster above his bed.  We bought 100 candles to light the cottage, a
small dwelling with each room on a different level connected by an open,
sculpted, winding stairway of clay & wood.  One night, we invited a few
guests from the village & threw a dinner party.  We roasted chickens over
the open fire in the fireplace & made two gallons of guacamole.  We drank
aged, dark rum, recited poetry, sang, danced, & stayed up all night--in Sir
Edward's honor!  Next morning, to dispell hangovers, we hiked to a waterfall
& plunged into the deep water pool.

This year, who knows what magic will happen?
I promise to send dispatches to the list, as I've done in the past.   This
winter, I'll be writing for an online travel zine & will let you know when
something's published online. Always, at the last minute, there are an
intense amount of details before heading off for a winter's adventure.  I
hope to find time to say a final "hasta luego" to my many marvelous friends
on this list.

!Andele!
Phaedra
'85 Wolfsburg Westy "Basecamp"