Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 08:26:09 -0500
Reply-To: John Rodgers <jhrodgers@CHARTER.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Rodgers <jhrodgers@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Re: 2.1 lifter replacement
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Larry Alofs wrote:
> John Rodgers wrote:
>
> > John Lunetta 1990 Vanagon GL wrote:
> >
> >> Does anyone know if you can replace the hydrolic lifters on a 1990
> >> 2.1 waterboxer without removing the cylinder heads? I will be using
> >> collapsable push rod tubes as replacments.
> >
> >
> > Why are you replacing lifters? It may not be necessary!!
> >
> > John Rodgers
> > 88 GL Driver who has a clacking lifter today ... but now it's fine.
> >
>
> Explain!
Larry, the clacking lifter syndrome is characteristic of the wasserleaker
engine in our beloved later model vans. The cause and cure has been cussed
and discussed a thousand times over. All sorts of info about it can be
found in the archives.
Almost 99.9 % of the time it is caused by the lifter losing its prime, or
the oil in the lifter simply leaking down when not running so that the
next time the engine is started cold (and some times not so cold) the
lifter is "out of adjustment" --- i.e., the valve train clearances are to
large and you get this terrible clacking sound. After it is run a while,
the lifter pumps back up, the clearances close or tighten up, and the
noise disappears.
It seems that the loss of pressure in the lifter is a function of the
pressure remaining in the oil galleries in the engine after shutdown.
This particular situation is sometimes remedied by going to he proper oil.
It is a debate as to which works best but I think most of us use 20W-50
oil. That is recommended by the book. In addition, having an oil filter
with the proper internal relief valve spring pressure is critical on these
engines. I use a Mahle filter exclusively, available from some of the list
vendors.
Given the engine design, the filter components help hold the pressure in
the oil galleries when the engine is shut down and prevent the lifters
from losing their prime. When the engine is stopped so a cam lobe is
putting pressure on a push rod, if the oil galleries don't hold pressure,
the push rod pressure on the lifter will cause it to collapse, and the
next time the engine is started the lifter will clatter and clack until it
pumps back up again.
Internal cleaning of the engine is also implicated in this clacking
problem, and many members of this list add a pint to a quart of Marvels
Mystery Oil to the oil at oil change and filter change time. Seems to help
for some. Some have opted to go to some of the newer synthetic oils to
get the best lube, engine protection, and eliminate the clacking lifter
syndrome.
Being religious about oil change and filter changes is crucial as well.
Most of these efforts will eliminate the clacking lifter problem. If not,
then the lifter may very well have to be changed.
Though I have not had to do it myself, I understand changing a lifter is
not to complicated, and that using a collapsible/expandable push rod tube
aids the process enormously.
Good luck.
John Rodgers
88 GL Driver
