Date:         Sun, 27 Aug 2000 21:09:27 PDT
Reply-To:     Mark Dorm <mark_hb@hotmail.com>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Mark Dorm <mark_hb@hotmail.com>
Subject:      Re: 50/50 water/coolant ratio
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

water, pure water (distilled), does not conduct electricity, but acts as an
insulator, so would this help to prevent corrosion through electrolysis??? I
don't know what happens when the coolant is added... whether it makes water
conductive as does salt... so maybe distilled water, dexcool (orange is a
nice color), and water wetter... (does it come in a color?)... and a little
fish.


>From: michael schiesser <drschiesser@bigplanet.com>
>
>Do you guys recc using special water like distilled or denatured to lower
>the mineral content?
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: John Rodgers <inua@hiwaay.net>
>
>
> > Michael,
> >
> > Running 100% coolant is to me a terrible idea. The heat transfer to a
>100%
> > solution is not as efficient as you might beleive. Follow the
>recommendations of
> > Bentley, the authority on the cooling system. Until perhaps recently,
>water
> > is/was the best heat collector/transporter from the metal of the engine
>to
>the
> > cooling radiator. Coolant (antifreeze, pump lubricant, coorosion
>inhibitor) by
> > itself is not very efficient for heat transfer. Only needed if you are
>in
>some
> > God-awful place like Umiat, Alaska in winter where it gets 60-70 degrees
>below
> > zero. Then thermal inefficiencies don't matter. At that point you are
>trying
> > everything possible to keep the engine warm enough to run.
> >
> > If you really want to do some good in the cooling department, go to a
>50/50 mix
> > or per Bentley, then add a bottle of Red-Line Water Wetter. The Redline
>stuff is
> > a wetting agent that brings about a greater surface contact of the water
>in the
> > coolant to the surfaces of the cooling system. This enhances heat
>transfer
>both
> > from the hot engine to the coolant and then from the coolant to the
>radiator to
> > the air passing through it.
> >
> > Just my view based on what I have learned over time about the science
> > thermodynamics, how my van works, and how to take care of the van.
> >
> > Luck,
> >
> > John Rodgers
> > 88GL Driver
> >
> > michael schiesser wrote:
> >
> > > John, I used to always mix coolant with water, especially in the
>summer
>to
> > > increase the heat capacity of the fluid, but my a vanagon mechanic
>told
>my
> > > always to use straight stuff, and thats waht I've been running on for
>years.
> > > (not to say I haven't had any probs with the cooling system, I ahve
>had
>lots
> > > of them. Does anybody have a solid recc on what are the conseqences of
>a
> > > 100% coolant ration vs 50/50 water.
> > >
> > > I'm also interested in the recent posting on the non-aqueous coolant
>that
> > > ?decreases head corrosion?
> > >
> > > Michael Schiesser
> > > 89 Westfalia
> > > Seattle WA
> > > Coolant to water ratio is out of balance. I can't say enough about
>this.
> > > >You
> > > >have to have the right amount of coolant in the water for the
>resistance
> > > >between
> > > >the contacts on the low water level sensor to be correct for proper
> > > >operation of
> > > >the sensor and warning light. Of the top of my head, I think I recall
>that
> > > >it
> > > >must be a 50-50 ratio. If the coolant is old, it can have it's
>effect.
> > > >
> > > >Coolant is no place to be chincy on the Vanagons. It's not THAT
>expensive,
> > > >and
> > > >good coolant helps keep the internal working of the cooling system
>free
>of
> > > >corrosion and increases the life of the coolant pump. I now use
> > > >bio-degradable
> > > >DexCool (orange color) in mine - good for two years - , and I bleed
>the
> > > >system
> > > >with the tail end up. Procedure works great for me, and I don't have
>to
> > > >hassle
> > > >the bleeder valve up front.
> > > >
> > > >Hope this helps a bit.
> > > >
> > > >John Rodgers
> > > >88GL Driver.
> > > >
> >

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