Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 07:14:44 PDT
Reply-To: Brian Cochran <rangerbrian@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Brian Cochran <rangerbrian@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Brake Master cylinder rebuild/replace?
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
I went through a arduous journey with master cylinders a month ago. With
symptoms similiar to yours, I shopped around for prices (They are
expensive!) and settled on a rebuilt one for forty dollars. I had to wait a
week to for the shop to receive it from the warehouse. Then I installed it
and things were worst than before! I couldn't figure it out. I gave up and
took it to a brake shop. At the shop they could't figure it out either, so
they "capped" all the lines and determined the cylinder was bad. Never
crossed my mind. I went home and called my shop, and they ordered another
one. That was the end of week two! At the end of week three(!), the 2nd
rebuilt job arrived and I took it home to install. I didn't even get it in
the van (luckily). It was leaking fluid out the main piston seal during the
bench bleed!!
I was very, very upset at this point. How could all these rebuilt jobs be
bad?!? I received a full exchange from the auto store and then drove over to
Bow-Wow (VW parts shop)(in my friend's car) and put down 100 bucks for a
brand new master cylinder. There were many beautiful days I missed out on
due to those faulty rebuilt jobs. Get a new one!
Now that's an opinion, furthurmore, the place that rebuilds the cylinders I
received may have a bunch of dopers working there. Who knows? I would have
rather not spent $100. I was rather fond of the $40 price range, but you
get what you pay for, or at least that's how the cliche goes.
Brian Cochran
84 westy
Seattle WA
Vernon Craddock wrote:
Scenario: Brakes are generally spongy on first push, but catch very well
after
initial pump. Bleeding does not seem to help. Once the brakes catch, they
only hold well for about 10 seconds, then the brake pedal rapidly sinks to
the
floor. This is bad in flat country, but really sucks when you have to stop
and
wait on a hill. No external leaks are visible, and no fluid loss is
evident.
I believe the master cylinder is leaking internally, but I seek your wisdom
to
verify the cause, and input regarding rebuilding vs. replacing. Are any
special tools required for this, or should I just take it to Midas and let
them
deal with it?
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