Date:         Wed, 23 Feb 2000 19:15:33 EST
Reply-To:     kenneth d lewis <kdlewis@JUNO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         kenneth d lewis <kdlewis@JUNO.COM>
Subject:      Re: Voltage Drop to Fuse Panel
Comments: To: EVEHART33@aol.com

Ken;
        Here's my solution to boosting the current to the headlights.
Conversley, you could trace the current path with a good volt meter and
find where the voltage drop is. I suspect the ignition switch or the
ground cluster.

Drive Safely & Good Luck
Ken Lewis    <Kernersville,NC>
86 VW crewcab;60 356B Coupe
--------------------------------------------------
        I finally got around to doing this mod, unfortunately it took a
headlight switch melt down to motivate me. I do not now if the round
headlight vans have the switch failure problem, but you WILL achieve a
voltage (and current) gain at the lights. This is a must if your are
doing any kind of headlight upgrade.  Measuring at the fuses I gained 1.5
volts on the low beams and 2.5 volts on the HI beams.        I did a good
bit of research and came up with a method that has these benefits:
>Greatly reduce the current flow through the pitiful headlight switch.
The     switch will now only carry enough current to operate the relays
instead of the 19 amps of high beam current.        >NONE of the original
wires are cut.        >ALL of the original HI and LO beam fuses are still
used.        >A noticeable gain in light output.        >My headlites
used to dim when  I turned on the heater fan. Not any more!        >It's
SANO i.e easy to install (or return to OEM) and well concealed.        My
vehicle is an 86 crew cab so I reference that schematic in the Bentley.
You will need : 1>Two automotive type relays. I purchased mine at
Radio Shack. They       are rated at 30 amps with four push on male,
spade terminals. Physically     about one inch black plastic cubes
with a mounting tab.    2> 10 gauge wire, the length depends on how
you route it from the           positive battery
post.   3>Some hook-up wire, about three feet (and female spade
connectors to   match that wire).It only has to carry enough
current to energize the coils   in the relays.  4>A suitable
fuse and fuse holder. It will need to be installed at the
                battery and feed the ten gauge wire. This is a must.
=========================Procedure===========================
Reference page 97.78 in the Bentley. I pulled off the large White and
Yellow  wires  at 56a and 56b on the back of the Headlite Flash/Dim
Switch. The black plastic cover under the steering wheel column will need
to be removed to access this plug. A large sewing pin or dentist pick is
useful in releasing the wires from the plug.          The two relays can
be mounted on the dash board behind the steering column. They will be
nicely concealed by the plastic cover. Mine are mounted sideways, with
terminals facing each other.         Connect the big white wire to one of
the relay contacts. The female connector already on the wire will fit the
relay terminal. The other relay contact is fed by the 10 gauge wire from
the battery post. Jumper one of the coil's terminal to the 56a terminal
(The origin of the big white wire). Attach the coil's other terminal to
ground (I used the screw which holds that relay down).  Repeat this
procedure for the Yellow wire except feed it with the same 10 gauge wire
from the first one . The relays are right next to each other so make a
small 10 gauge jumper. The second relay's coil is fed by 56b.   I
did not cover the route of the ten gauge wire between the relays and the
battery. This because I think few Vanagons have the same floor board
between the front seat like my Crewcab. Be careful of high traffic areas
or chafing through holes.
==========================Summary======================
There are a lot of connections, switch contacts and small wires between
the battery and the headlights. Each drops a small voltage proportional
to the current through it. The higher the current the higher the voltage
loss. This mod reduces parasitic voltage drops to the headlights
significantly. The headlight switch no longer has to carry the headlight
current. A new switch runs $43 from VW.         A proper crimper greatly
enhances  things. The Shack also sells these.  Drive Safely & Good Luck
Ken Lewis<Kernersville,NC>86 VW crewcab;60 T-5 Coupe ,85 GL(Elvis)

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